PRINT: Climb Glob Gleab, Southeast Utah

Glob Gleab

C1, Aid, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: Brian Shelton/Martin Douglas
Utah > Southeast Utah > Tusher Canyon > Neighbor Of Putterman

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

This route is the just opposite Putterman Big Toe, it is actually the back side of that crack.

Approach as for Big Toe, when you get to the saddle between The house of Putterman and Neighbor Of Putterman head to the South face of Neighbor instead of the North. The climb is the first route on your right. You can't miss it, it is a splitter half inch finger line straight up the face. It is half inch for about 35 feet and then gets into hands then offwidth. Use the anchors for Puttermans Big Toe around the corner at the top. (unseen from the bottom of the route)

Protection

Bring 3 or 4 exrta half inch cams or tri-cams for the splitter section. Otherwise a standard desert rack up to 3 inches will do.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

On the send. Photo by Ellie Grimes.

David Hall taking on his first aid lead.

David Hall having fun on Glob Gleab.

Looking straight up Glob Gleab.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian Shelton

This route will go free might be in the 5.12? area, perfect fingers on dead vertical rock for 25 feet or so. Oct 2, 2002

Joe Stern
Moab, Utah

5.12-

After getting really close several years ago, I finally went back and redpointed this route on 3/19/2023 (FFA?). The finger crack splitter is steep and technical, with just enough face features and pods to keep the free climbing sort of reasonable. It felt like 5.12- to me.

Some soft rock at the very beginning and in the upper hand crack section detracts a bit from the overall quality. Nevertheless, this thing has some really fun climbing in a beautiful setting and should be on every finger crack aficionado's list.

Rack: (1-2) blue Metolius to #3 BD. For me, the blue, yellow, and orange Metolius sizes seemed to fit better than BD cams in the fingers section.

This route could really use its own anchor. As it's currently rigged, you need about 30' of rigging rope to set up a TR from the Putterman's Big Toe anchor. Mar 20, 2023