Type: Trad
FA: Glenn Dunmire, Stew Sayah, April 1988
Page Views: 7,364 total · 32/month
Shared By: J Hickok on Sep 19, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This tower looks so intriguing as you approach from down below coming up the Sand Flats Road. Adventure climbing! Drive up the road farther than seems necessary and park just before a section of the road that is bulldozer scraped slickrock. Stay high (east) on the approach or else you might find yourself hiking extra to find your way to the base of the tower.

The photo existing on this site shows the easy slab approach to the very base of the route on the North West side of the tower. It would be a good idea to protect the belay if you start right here.

My partner led off without feeling confident in much of the initial gear, but eventually got something decent in. After moving through the worse rock at the bottom, my partner placed a more trustworthy cam and continued to climb to a section of the tower that you can stick your arm through. No joke, you could grab a climber's arm on the route on the south side of the tower.

The top out is a bit awkward. Make some interesting moves under the roof of the "hammer-head" to clip a bolt on the lip. Commit yourself to the very do-able moves over the lip and on to the summit.

The day we topped out, the slings on top were quite old, but since this tower seems to be seeing more ascents in the new millennium, I'm sure the webbing you find will be quite worthy for rappel.

Sounds like a single 60m rappel is working for people.

Protection

One set of cams, stoppers, and long slings. Sounds like chain anchors on top now.

Photos