The Naked and Dead
Avg: 2.2 from 185
FA: Les Ellison & Hooman Aprin, 1981
> Moab Area
> Indian Creek
> Donnelly Canyon
Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas
Please be aware of climbing routes that have nesting raptors. This News Release requests climbers' cooperation
in protecting eagles, peregrine falcons,
and other migratory birds
who use the Indian Creek area to raise their young. Between March 1st and August 31st
each year, the BLM asks climbers to avoid climbing these walls
until they have been cleared by agency biologists: The Wall, Far Side, Second Meat Wall, Disappointment Cliff, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall,
and Reservoir Wall
. Two of these walls are on partially or wholly on lands managed by SITLA, who is working cooperatively with BLM to protect raptors. The BLM and SITLA will survey walls and generally in May can release any routes that don't have active nests. The walls with active nests should be avoided until the young have fledged. Eagles and falcons mate for life and return to the same nest sites year after year to raise their young, your cooperation is vital to their survival.
The revised map for Raptor Avoidance:
(The map previously posted was requested by Jason Byrd to be deleted due to errors.)
The news release: blm.gov/press-release/annou…
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
From Generic Crack, walk about 60' to the left. There you will see a huge flake in a left-facing corner. This flake forms a tips-crack on the right, and a finger-to-hand crack on the left side. A double chain anchor is 35' off the ground, just above the top of the flake. A single bolt and ring are above the right hand side, to serve as a directional to protect the fingertips varaition (5.11+, TR)
P1: Climb to the top of this flake (5.9) fromt he left, with good protection and simple, but powerful moves.
P2: Climb up the corner, in agreat and solid tight-hands crack. This starts as a 2-2.5" crack for a bit, the eases up to really good hands for a few moves. After a few more moves, the climb drastically changes its nature. The corner becomes softer rock (but still safe) and turns into a "double-inset" up above. This is like having 2 aretes facing nose-to-nose with 12" in between and a chunk of rock some distance behind. The fun part may be the shenanigans you pull to achieve one no-hands rest after another, by heal-toe, knee-bar, or other odd modes, using the hollow area back in the corner for these positions. Once past the steepest part of the rock, smaller cams are more useful than large ones (1-1.5"). No OW gear is necessary.
A beginning leader may likely find the distance between a few of the pieces disconcerting when combined with the odd positions of theis route, and as a result will tunnel back in to chimney the moves. That's no fun, so let it all hang out and enjoy it!!!
A wide assortment of gear. The bottom pitch (35') protects well on a single set of cams. The second pitch (80') requires plenty of gear from 3" to 3.5" (Blue Camalots are good) Up above the overhang, where the crack appears widest, narrow gear, 1" to 1.5" can be used in a hidden-from-view crack. No O.W. gear is necessary. The upper pitch is soft rock and is flaring in spots and will produce some odd body position. Although the grade is moderate overall, I'd loathe to recommend this to a beginning leader.
Jorel Potts begins The Naked and The Dead.
lenore sparks on the 5.10 second pitch of the naked and the dead on a freezing sunless day in indian creek. by all accounts, this should have been her pitch. 12/27/04
Jonah wilkey leading the naked and the dead.
Gary leading pitch one
5.10b4me on the first pitch
freezing cold first 5.8 pitch of the naked and the dead. shot by lenore sparks. 12/27/04
Sequence of Greg making the route happen.