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Routes in Blue Gramma Cliff

Blue Gramma T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dawn of an Age T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desert Siren (Tower) T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Event Horizon, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C1
Formerly Aided T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayley's Heyday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left of 5.10 Flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moon Goddess Revenge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Orion's Bow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Petrelli Motors T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Price of Evil, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Unknown far left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown far left - II T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.10 Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed II (fingers through fists) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,463 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 23, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is one of the more consitent off-fingers routes at indian creek. It is also one of the better quality corners to be had at this cliff.

Find a well-chalked left-facing off-fingers crack in a dark rock area, just a ways right of Dawn Of An Age, and left of the namesake Blue Gramma pitch. Run up sustained off-hands (too thin) and finger stacks with laybacks, pumping with few rests for 90' to the anchors. SWEET.

People with sausage-like fingers may find it easier, but skinny fingered climbers will find it hard. It's moves and dark varnish texture are both reminiscent of The Wave - this route may be shorter, but seems pumpy, for lack of rests and thinner size.

Protection

Small cams and TCU's , mostly 1" and 1.5"

Photos

RyanO
sunshine
 
RyanO   sunshine
 
I found a lot more green C4s than purple on this route, the first 10 feet of the splitter, then another short section up higher was purple, then the rest was green. I did it with 1 gray, 2 purples, 3 greens, 1 red, and 1 yellow (in that order). Jun 12, 2012
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.11-
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.11-
Great climb and a good warm-up for Blue Gramma Nov 19, 2009
No way. This is rated 5.11? I onsighted a 5.11 in the creek? wahoo! Jun 11, 2009
I wouldn't say this climb is sustained. My legs were more burnt than my arms. Lots of foot holds and stemming leads to a section of blank walls. Put a cam in up high and go for it, you will be rewarded.A. Everhart Nov 30, 2003
Dan St. John
Castle Rock
Dan St. John   Castle Rock
5 x .5 2 x .75 and 1 x 2 cammolts. I have super fat fingers so they fight tight yet I layed the corner back and found two full on stemming no hands rests. Despite being a bit short I agree this is one og the best finger corners at the creek that I have been on thus far. Jul 8, 2002