Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,485 total · 50/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 12, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: RAPTOR AVOIDANCE. Also, Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details


This route is an obvious, left-facing dihedral. This route lies just left of where the main trail up to the crag meets the rock, and about 20 yards to the right of Wigglin' Worm.

Tape up your paws and climb the wide-hands crack (with a fist here or there for small handed people) to the top of this 70' crack and lower off of the fixed anchor.


Mostly #3-#3.5 cams. #2-#3 camalots are perfect.


Stefanie Van Wychen
Denver, CO
Stefanie Van Wychen   Denver, CO
This route is great if you have small hands and want to work on fists or if you have big hands and want to work on off-hands. My hands are medium-sized for a girl and I get bomber fists almost the whole way - albiet the jams hurt pretty bad. And suck it up on this one and go tapeless - teaches you better technique!!

NOTE: This is often confused with Three Fools. Three Fools is the splitter but short fist crack that splits the wall at the top of the approach trail. Sep 18, 2006
Bryan Gall
New Castle, CO
Bryan Gall   New Castle, CO
The photo by Monty is what I thought was three fools; the photo of dave is what the new guide calls three fools. Damn! Oct 18, 2007
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT

The route your describing here is actually an unnamed 5.10 #12 in the new Bloom guide. Three Fools is farther right and climbs a slightly overhanging big hand and fist crack (#3-#3.5 Camalots, maybe the new #4's might fit at the widest spot?) Sep 29, 2008
saint george area
javi   saint george area
Bunch of #3 a couple #2 camalots awesome for big hands Nov 6, 2012
Black Hawk, CO
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
The photos are of two different routes.

The corner is in sight of wigglin worm and Dr Carl. It is Route #15 in the Bloom 2nd edition "Unnamed 5.10-"

The other photo labelled as three fools is further around to the right Nov 9, 2014

hey all, i tried to sort this route and three fools out as best as possible. Nov 11, 2014
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
If you don't have a big stack of #3's, there are a few places in the middle of the pitch where some #2's will work. I found the 3.5 I had to be a bit of a pain, only a few very specific places it would go.

Soft for the grade. Mar 18, 2015