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Wounded Knee

5.10+, Trad,  Avg: 2.7 from 180 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Pistol Whipped
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Just to the Right of Coyne Crack Simulator, there is a set of right-leaning cracks that starts at the ground, and become a more singular crack that moves to the right at a wide spot (crux, protected by a #4 or 4.5 camalot). Run up the bottom, place good gear with a long sling in the wide spot, then OW-grovel or Power-layback a few moves around the wide flake, up and right, before coming to rest in the handcrack. Shoot for the top on 10- moves from there.

This climb is about 90' long. Using a single 60 Meter rope was no problem, but I am not so sure about a 50M.


A good rack of cams 1.5-4" with at least one #4 camalot. The crux is protected by a 4 or 4.5 camalot.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

French girl
[Hide Photo] French girl
Tight hands on Wounded Knee. 4/2012.<br>
Photo: Dominic Tracey
[Hide Photo] Tight hands on Wounded Knee. 4/2012. Photo: Dominic Tracey
C. Treiber on Wounded Knee
[Hide Photo] C. Treiber on Wounded Knee
Chris Trudeau 11.9.08
[Hide Photo] Chris Trudeau 11.9.08
OW not mandatory
[Hide Photo] OW not mandatory
October Sunset on Wounded Knee
[Hide Photo] October Sunset on Wounded Knee
Loving the thin hands start
[Hide Photo] Loving the thin hands start
Crisp April afternoon climbing
[Hide Photo] Crisp April afternoon climbing
Wounded Knee. 4/2012<br>
Photo: Dominic Tracey
[Hide Photo] Wounded Knee. 4/2012 Photo: Dominic Tracey
C. Treiber lowering off
[Hide Photo] C. Treiber lowering off
Wounded Knee, Indian Creek
[Hide Photo] Wounded Knee, Indian Creek
Splitter thin hands start, Wounded Knee, Indian Creek
[Hide Photo] Splitter thin hands start, Wounded Knee, Indian Creek

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Different Strokes for different Folks. I posted the consensus grade. I personally felt that it was 10+/11- for the awkward move by the wide spot. It depends what you compare it to. For me and Joseffa, it was a lot harder than Speghetti Western, which is supposedly 5.11d!!!

My partner, who on-sights 5.11 (a *_lot_* of 11's at I.C.) had a hell of a hard time even following this route, falling several times. So who's to say? Apr 29, 2002
[Hide Comment] This route is at most mid-5.10...much easier than Spaghetti Western which feels 11minus-ish to me May 1, 2002
Josh Beck
[Hide Comment] This is the most overrated route (difficulty, not quality) I've found in the creek yet. Definitely fun. Definitely only 5.10. For me about the same difficulty as IHC and actually easier than Supercrack (I have slightly smaller hands but not tiny). Very fun with a very bizarre but cool move up high in a kinda wide flaky section.

Tempted to call it 10b... May 13, 2003
[Hide Comment] This route is easy depending on your wingspan. If you're short, you can't go as high using the crack on the left and it's harder. I am 6'2'', and I have sent an 11a :) Sep 10, 2003
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] More varied than most Indian Creek routes. Mar 17, 2008
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] I really liked this route. Strenuous climbing up the .75 / tight #1 crack to the ledge then a hard mantle and reach to establish in the upper crack. The gear isn't straight forward. You either pull the mantle 5 feet above the slung chockstone or figure out how to place gear somewhere. Quality route!

CL Oct 21, 2008
James Aikman
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] after sending this route today i came home to find that i had not only cut a hole in my pants, but also left a big gobi on my knee.....wounded indeed! great climb! Mar 27, 2009
Laramie, WY
[Hide Comment] The "5.11" move is casual if you know how to climb offwidths. Seriously. Felt like 5.9. For me, the hard part was the tight-hands section to get to it. I'm terrible at that size.

Don't look beyond if you don't want the ultra-secret beta:

Kneejam and look right. Jesus people. You can see it from the ground. Apr 13, 2009
Travis Hibbard
[Hide Comment] Felt easier than 10+ to me,

thin hands to a ledge, a wide section to a ledge, wide hands to a ledge. Really fun route in my opinion, I liked the fact that it wasn't a plug and chug route, made you think. Oct 18, 2010
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
[Hide Comment] Guide book did not call for any #4 C4 so when I got to the crux I had to retreat because I was to scared to pull it without protection. Went back and got the crux easy after plugging in a protection piece Oct 15, 2013
Dave Meyer
[Hide Comment] Toe hook is definitely the beta to get past the initial thin hands. Mar 16, 2015
Derek Field
[Hide Comment] Don't miss this route, as it's chocked with variety and will test many skills. Cruiser tight-hands off the deck (all #1's) and then a funky layback-offwidth maneuver about halfway up. This move is easily protected by either a #4 or #5. Real highlight is pulling into the wide hands above. Save a #2 (and some strength) for the somewhat desperate move to the chains. Sep 26, 2016