Avg: 3.8 from 185 votes
|Type:||Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Charlie Fowler, Glenn Randall, 1982|
|Page Views:||29,329 total · 122/month|
|Shared By:||Bryson Slothower on Apr 6, 2002 · Updates|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
In Search of Suds is a very high quality climb with good rock, wild exposure and an amazing view. The adventure has only begun once you reach the summit.
The route begins on the right side of the Southwest face, there are several ways to get there. It is best to begin the route from the saddle between Washer Woman and Monster Tower. The best approach is from the South via steep talus slopes.
Pitch 1:5.10, 85 feet. Scramble to the saddle and begin climbing off the left side of the ridge in a steep fist crack with difficult moves right off the deck. Continue up and pass an offwidth section and belay at a bolt anchor with slings. You should be able to see daylight through a small eye piercing the tower above. Beware of loose rock on this pitch.
Pitch 2 5.10, 90 feet. Climb up to an airy stance near the Eye and sling a chockstone for pro before moving into the crack left of the eye. Make some 5.9 moves and continue up to easier climbing in the crack above. Pass a squeeze chimney through a bulge and make scary moves on sandy sloping holds out of the chimney and onto the belay ledge. Belay at 3 bolt anchor with slings below a roof.
Pitch 3: 5.10+, 70 feet. From the comfortable belay ledge move directly right and into a good hand/fist crack with a roof above. Power through the roof with several 5.10 moves and make a difficult move up and right above the roof (5.10+, TCU). Continue to the ridge on fun 5.9 crack climbing. Arrange a gear belay on the ridge.
Pitch 4: 5.6, 70 feet. Traverse along the ridge towards the summit and belay where it steepens. This can be combined with the next pitch.
Pitch 5: 5.9, 20 feet. Face climb a short steep section with an old pin, Belay at bolt anchor on large ledge below final headwall.
Pitch 6: 5.10+, 80 feet. Face climb up past some loose rotten bands (5.9R) to a beautiful black varnished face with four drilled pitons. Face climb on small holds up and past the bolts to a mind blowing summit and belay at bolt anchor.
Descent: 3 or 4 two-rope rappels down the Kor Route
Rap 1: Rap back to the ledge at the base of the last pitch.
Rap 2: Rappel through the arch! Carefully thread anchors just over the edge of the South side and make a wild free hanging rappel down the face to a set of Metolius rap bolts. Getting over the edge to start this rappel is tricky and way spooky. This is one of the most incredible rappels in the world. Be very careful of loose rock when you pull the ropes after this rap.
Rap 3: If you have two 60 meter ropes you can hit the ground on this rappel. If not look for the best set of bolts (several exist) and make another rappel.