PRINT: Rock Climb Electronic Battleship, Southeast Utah

Electronic Battleship

5.10, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 2.4 from 34 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southeast Utah > Potash Rd > Long Canyon > Shipyard

Access Issue: Sheep Aware Details

Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

This route is 30' slightly uphill from Nina. It is characterized by a widening crack that eventually thins and angles slightly left to meet another crack for a stem near the visible anchors. Start with hands, which leads to large fists. I have big hands and could barely get enough friction with both fists jammed to pull myself up. The wide section narrows after 20', at which point a stem with some finger action will lead to the anchors. 60' A good climb for someone with a thin rack.

Protection

Camalots: 2 #2, 2 #3, 1 #3.5, 1 or 2 finger-size TCUs

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Starting up Electronic Battleship

In the midst of the wide stuff- size 11 feet and elbow deep arms barely keeping me moving in the right direction.

Jens on E.B.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Craig Quincy
Louisville, CO

I would suggest bringing three or four #3.5 camalots or #4 Friends and maybe some other additional cams. The wide fist/off-fist section is very parallel and goes on for 20 feet. If you have small hands like me, reaching back in the crack won't help and it's hard to make upward progress with your feet slipping out, so the extra gear will be welcome. On top rope, I found it much easier to just lay back this section. Oct 8, 2002

Josh3
Provo, Utah

1#2 2#3's and 2#4's in camalot sizes are what I like to have for this one Oct 9, 2008

Armin hammer
Reno, NV

5.10b/c

"old style" #4 BD worked great at crux, my new C4 was little tipped out. Nov 19, 2009

Jesse Morehouse
CO

5.10+

The wide middle was rattle fists but not quite offwidth for me. A good way to get worn out prior to the thin finish! Worth doing for sure. I had 2 #3.5 camalots and was thankful for them. Nov 24, 2012