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Lucy in the Sky with Potash

5.10a/b, Trad,  Avg: 2.8 from 329 votes
FA: FA: Linus Platt
Utah > Moab Area > Potash Rd > Wall Street
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Fun roadside route between 30 seconds over potash and nervous in suburbia. Starts off as hands, moves to fingers, with a cool couple face moves, then back to fingers. Watch out for a couple loose flakes toward the top (someone drew a big chalk "NO" on one of them). They seem pretty solid; just don't pull out on them to hard.

Protection

Mix of stoppers, small cams, and a couple hand sized cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jenny Schillinger high on 'Lucy In the Sky With Potash (10a)'. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2003.
[Hide Photo] Jenny Schillinger high on 'Lucy In the Sky With Potash (10a)'. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2003.
nice line
[Hide Photo] nice line
White Helmet, blue shirt is LSP route
[Hide Photo] White Helmet, blue shirt is LSP route
The boys up on Lucy in the Sky and 30 Seconds Over Potash
[Hide Photo] The boys up on Lucy in the Sky and 30 Seconds Over Potash
Good View of the Crack
[Hide Photo] Good View of the Crack
Tony Romano protects before sending the crux where the crack thins out to small fingers.  Some climbers use the arete for help, others use small face holds on the left for help.
[Hide Photo] Tony Romano protects before sending the crux where the crack thins out to small fingers. Some climbers use the arete for help, others use small face holds on the left for help.
Above the thin section.<br>
Photographer: Rich Servantes
[Hide Photo] Above the thin section. Photographer: Rich Servantes
The start to "LSP" is behind the flagpole.
[Hide Photo] The start to "LSP" is behind the flagpole.
Setting pro for the crux.<br>
Photographer: Rich Servantes<br>
[Hide Photo] Setting pro for the crux. Photographer: Rich Servantes

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Fun route- different cruxes depending on body and finger size. Short people have trouble with using the arete on the right and going up left to the big sloper edge (normal crux). Big people have trouble getting fingers in down even lower. I have small fingers and long arms, but that considered, I still felt this climb was nearly a full number grade harder than some of the 5.10a's at potash.A small stopper (very small) can be placed at your waist at the crux.

Fun and cruxy. Not like the normal desert cracks.

5.10c. Harder if you are short. All 4 members of our party agreed. May 5, 2003
Shane Zentner
Colorado
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Grabbing the arete is awkward but effective. I placed something small at the crux, I believe a small alien. There is a flake near the top of the route that is hollow(Pull down, not out!). Fingers to face climbing. Check out the 5.8 dihedral to the right. Mar 15, 2004
Lynn S
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] 00 C3 will be at your waist for the bouldery crux move. Reached up left for the edge, the higher you reach the less greasy the hold. Smear with the left and step up with the right in the corner, slam a jam in the next opening. Fun climbing. Mar 13, 2009
[Hide Comment] Fun route. I was there last week and a local told me they recently took the large flake at the top down with a crowbar, so don't worry about trying to be careful--it's no longer there. Mar 30, 2009
Skyler Penrod
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Fun route, great lead with good pro. There is only one small .10a sequence on the route. You have a good piece(#1 Camelot)underneath you so don't sweat it! Apr 24, 2009
Abandoned User
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] Brian, and everyone, the death flake at the top is still there, and even if it wasn't, continue to be careful. There's a lot of loose rock near the top. Hard crux move in my opinion. Nov 2, 2009
[Hide Comment] Super fun route. Not sure if I could agree with the consensus of a 5.10a grade. The crux is pretty hard 5.10b-5.10c. The rest of the route is crusier though. May 4, 2012
Joseph Lascurain
Cincinnati
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] The crux might not be so bad if the feet weren't polished in this section. Otherwise if feels pretty hard for 10a. I felt that there was no move even close to as hard as this crux on Flakes of Wrath which seemed much more than a slight grade easier IMO. Anyways fun route. Nov 1, 2012
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Really delicate crux. I thought this line was awesome. I doubled my pro at the crux and hoped the rubber would stick! Nov 22, 2013
Emily C Sukiennik
Sedona, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Love!!! This was my first 5.10 trad lead, and a great one at that. Small hands at the crux and some difficulty placing gear where you want to place your fingers. A great challenge. May 27, 2015
[Hide Comment] Mostly awkward, I didn't find any memorable moves on this guy. Dec 22, 2015
Mackay Crabbe 1
Moab, Utah
[Hide Comment] This climb got a whole lot easier this past winter. Whether somebody chipped it out or just getting climbed, fresh after a rain, there is a easy step in the crack right in the middle of the crux move. Made the climb into a 5.9 in my opinion. Still fun but way easier than it used to be! Feb 24, 2017
Tyler N
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Definitely still 5.10.
As of last weekend there was a nut pretty well welded in right before the crux. Nov 1, 2017
[Hide Comment] Here is a beta video for the route: youtu.be/nAQod_1L1A4 Mar 24, 2018