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Sheila Lonestar aka Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout

5.11b, Trad, 125 ft (38 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 148 votes
FA: Jeff Achey & Leonard Coyne 1981
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Battle of the Bulge B…
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Description

Approaching from the east the route starts 30 feet past the wall art, which is marked by a built up ring of rocks. The climb is in a large left-facing dihedral with a distinct no feet offwidth at the beginning. The short offwidth start has good foot holds outside the crack after the first 5 ft. This leads to almost endless small hand jams through two somewhat steeper sections. The last 40 ft. is less than vertical and icing on the cake. 3 bolt anchor, 170 feet.

Protection

BD Camalots: 6 #1, 4 #2, 2 #3, 1 #3.5, 1 #4, and 1 #3 Big Bro (optional)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The bombay/squeeze start. This is the full body workout part.
[Hide Photo] The bombay/squeeze start. This is the full body workout part.
nice light on JFTBW in late afternoon
[Hide Photo] nice light on JFTBW in late afternoon
Mike at the second crux, up high climbing through the big-hands pod.
[Hide Photo] Mike at the second crux, up high climbing through the big-hands pod.
In the wide bit. Photo by Mel Fun.
[Hide Photo] In the wide bit. Photo by Mel Fun.
Handcrack in a corner for 120 feet.
[Hide Photo] Handcrack in a corner for 120 feet.
Looking up from the base.
[Hide Photo] Looking up from the base.
J. Lantz getting his workout on.
[Hide Photo] J. Lantz getting his workout on.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bryson Slothower
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] Nice on-sight Brian!!!!!

Mar 31, 2002
Anonymous Coward
[Hide Comment] The true name for this route is Sheila Lonestar and the first ascent party was Leonard Coyne and Jimmy Dunn Nov 19, 2004
Rob Kepley
Westminster, CO
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Jane Fonda opened up a big can of whoop ass the day I got on this one. Tough start for sure. This crack just never seems to end. Feb 3, 2007
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
[Hide Comment] With 70 m rope you can not safely reach the ground. Use trail line or two ropes Apr 16, 2007
rob bauer
Nederland, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Maybe an interesting story? My buddy Steve Lynn & I did this on 5-25-81. We cleaned the start a lot and led until I ran out of gear (Didn't have enough to get a full pitch, or a decent end point; certainly not high enough to put in an anchor.) I pulled up rocks in a stuff sack, tied a sling and belayed off a rock and my last Friend. (Note, we used river rocks which we harvested the night before. We'd used sandstone rocks on another climb the day before--WAY too scary!) Anyway, we thought it was a new route at the time. [I've always wondered whether someone finished this and just spent a couple of hours looking at slides to figure it out.] Edit: In retrospect, if we'd really been hardmen, we would've swapped gear at the hanging belay and continued, but it was hot and we were beat. We still needed 2 ropes to bail. Somebody must've got a kick out of that anchor. Mar 2, 2010
roundhead
[Hide Comment] i remember that anchor. is it still there? Mar 5, 2010
Luke Stefurak
Chattanooga, TN
  5.11
[Hide Comment] You can TR this route with an 80m rope the climb is only ~140 feet.

Rack beta seems really off. I would go with at least 4- 2.0 Friend/Black Metolius, 8- #1 camalots , 2-3 #2 camalot, 2-3 #3 camalot, 1 #4 camalot. Also a big piece like a #5 of #6 (or both) would not go unplaced in the starting chimney. Lots of gear but a long climb! Mar 28, 2011
Kevin Lockwood
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] I barely reached the ground with a 70m, it probably depends on the manufacturer. Not all 70m ropes are created equally.
Fun route, I protected the start right off with ground with a #1 camalot, and then my belayer unclipped it once I got the #5 in. A great short offwidth that rewards you with a really long corner that varies from 0.75 to #3 until the top. Apr 16, 2018
Max Shaffer
Reno, NV
 
[Hide Comment] I really enjoyed this route, although it totally spanked me. Funky start, pretty chill off-width and tight hands for days! I brought 7 #1 red Camalots and back-cleans A TON. I'd probably bring 9 or 10 next time. This thing is LONG. An 80m rope works great. Nov 30, 2020
Cory N
Monticello, UT
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Name checks out! The challenging climbing can be seen from the ground, Luke's gear beta was helpful. This is a difficult size for me with all the baggy greens, I brought 5x .75s and wasn't upset about it. Mar 25, 2022
Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I didn't place any #0.75s since #1s fit the entire way (they are tight at the start). Nov 13, 2022