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Routes in Battle of the Bulge Buttress

3 Strikes You're Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Air Swedin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Battle of the Bulge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Baby, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bloombagged Again T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cal and Andy's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cave Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Christmas Tree T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crack Attack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Readout T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Disco Machine Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dogs in Space T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Down in Albion T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Elbow Vices T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hole in the Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jagged Wedge, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Battle, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Like a Prayer T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Mayes, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Also Rises, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Machine, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Our Piece of Real Estate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pigs In Space T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quarter of a Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Railroad Tracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ruby's Cafe T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ruins Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Seppuku Flake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedin-Ringle T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Think Pink T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warm-up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,008 total, 37/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Mar 23, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Approaching from the east the route starts 30 feet past the wall art, which is marked by a built up ring of rocks. The climb is in a large left-facing dihedral with a distinct no feet offwidth at the beginning. The short offwidth start has good foot holds outside the crack after the first 5 ft. This leads to almost endless small hand jams through two somewhat steeper sections. The last 40 ft. is less than vertical and icing on the cake. 3 bolt anchor, 170 feet.

Protection

BD Camalots: 6 #1, 4 #2, 2 #3, 1 #3.5, 1 #4, and 1 #3 Big Bro (optional)

Photos

Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
  5.11
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
  5.11
You can TR this route with an 80m rope the climb is only ~140 feet.

Rack beta seems really off. I would go with at least 4- 2.0 Friend/Black Metolius, 8- #1 camalots , 2-3 #2 camalot, 2-3 #3 camalot, 1 #4 camalot. Also a big piece like a #5 of #6 (or both) would not go unplaced in the starting chimney. Lots of gear but a long climb! Mar 28, 2011
i remember that anchor. is it still there? Mar 5, 2010
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
Maybe an interesting story? My buddy Steve Lynn & I did this on 5-25-81. We cleaned the start a lot and led until I ran out of gear (Didn't have enough to get a full pitch, or a decent end point; certainly not high enough to put in an angle.) I pulled up rocks in a stuff sack, tied a sling and belayed off a rock and my last Friend. (Note, we used river rocks which we harvested the night before. We'd used sandstone rocks on another climb the day before--WAY to scary!) Anyway, we thought it was a new route at the time. [I've always wondered whether someone finished this and just spent a couple of hours looking at slides to figure it out.]

edit: In retrospect, if we'd really been hardmen, we would've swapped gear at the hanging belay and continued, but it was hot and we were beat. We still needed 2 ropes to bail. Somebody must've got a kick out of that anchor. Mar 2, 2010
Alexey
San Jose
Alexey   San Jose
With 70 m rope you can not safely reach the ground. Use trail line or two ropes Apr 16, 2007
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11b
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11b
Jane Fonda opened up a big can of whoop ass the day I got on this one. Tough start for sure. This crack just never seems to end. Feb 3, 2007
Rob T  
a 70 m rope barely got us down yesterday. probably should knot the ends. Sep 11, 2006
The true name for this route is Sheila Lonestar and the first ascent party was Leonard Coyne and Jimmy Dunn Nov 19, 2004
Nice on-sight Brian!!!!!

Mar 31, 2002