Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,499 total · 37/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Mar 23, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Approaching from the east the route starts 30 feet past the wall art, which is marked by a built up ring of rocks. The climb is in a large left-facing dihedral with a distinct no feet offwidth at the beginning. The short offwidth start has good foot holds outside the crack after the first 5 ft. This leads to almost endless small hand jams through two somewhat steeper sections. The last 40 ft. is less than vertical and icing on the cake. 3 bolt anchor, 170 feet.

Protection

BD Camalots: 6 #1, 4 #2, 2 #3, 1 #3.5, 1 #4, and 1 #3 Big Bro (optional)

Photos

Nice on-sight Brian!!!!!

Mar 31, 2002
The true name for this route is Sheila Lonestar and the first ascent party was Leonard Coyne and Jimmy Dunn Nov 19, 2004
Rob T  
a 70 m rope barely got us down yesterday. probably should knot the ends. Sep 11, 2006
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11b
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11b
Jane Fonda opened up a big can of whoop ass the day I got on this one. Tough start for sure. This crack just never seems to end. Feb 3, 2007
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
With 70 m rope you can not safely reach the ground. Use trail line or two ropes Apr 16, 2007
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
Maybe an interesting story? My buddy Steve Lynn & I did this on 5-25-81. We cleaned the start a lot and led until I ran out of gear (Didn't have enough to get a full pitch, or a decent end point; certainly not high enough to put in an angle.) I pulled up rocks in a stuff sack, tied a sling and belayed off a rock and my last Friend. (Note, we used river rocks which we harvested the night before. We'd used sandstone rocks on another climb the day before--WAY too scary!) Anyway, we thought it was a new route at the time. [I've always wondered whether someone finished this and just spent a couple of hours looking at slides to figure it out.] edit: In retrospect, if we'd really been hardmen, we would've swapped gear at the hanging belay and continued, but it was hot and we were beat. We still needed 2 ropes to bail. Somebody must've got a kick out of that anchor. Mar 2, 2010
i remember that anchor. is it still there? Mar 5, 2010
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
  5.11
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
  5.11
You can TR this route with an 80m rope the climb is only ~140 feet.

Rack beta seems really off. I would go with at least 4- 2.0 Friend/Black Metolius, 8- #1 camalots , 2-3 #2 camalot, 2-3 #3 camalot, 1 #4 camalot. Also a big piece like a #5 of #6 (or both) would not go unplaced in the starting chimney. Lots of gear but a long climb! Mar 28, 2011
kalockwood
SLC, UT
 
kalockwood   SLC, UT
 
I barely reached the ground with a 70m, it probably depends on the manufacturer. Not all 70m ropes are created equally.
Fun route, I protected the start right off with ground with a #1 camalot, and then my belayer unclipped it once I got the #5 in. A great short offwidth that rewards you with a really long corner that varies from 0.75 to #3 until the top. Apr 16, 2018