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Torque Wrench

5.11, Trad, 150 ft (45 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 77 votes
FA: Jay Smith, Paul Obanhein
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Scarface
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

Go right from where the approach trail hits the wall for a few hundred feet. This route is just left of the 5.13 corner called Death of a Cowboy (plaque). The letters TW are painted at the route's base. A long strenuous handcrack which takes some thought to negociate the crux which pulls past/over a huge chockstone. Don't get tunnel vision at this intimidating section. The majority of the route is great hands. Enjoy it!

Protection

As many hand sized pieces as you can borrow. The bottom thin-hands flack takes #2 Friends well. Bring 4 or 5 #2 Friends. Bring a couple smaller pieces but nothing micro. A #4 Friend will also be helpful. Bring slings and draws to reduce rope drag.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

chimney life
[Hide Photo] chimney life
ED low on the route #1's all day
[Hide Photo] ED low on the route #1's all day
Top of the chimney.
[Hide Photo] Top of the chimney.
Stemming my way up to the crux. PC to Isabel Gourley, posted with permission.
[Hide Photo] Stemming my way up to the crux. PC to Isabel Gourley, posted with permission.
rest up ! an get pumped up! an move out one of the coolest roof's in the creek..
[Hide Photo] rest up ! an get pumped up! an move out one of the coolest roof's in the creek..

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

d-know
electric lady land
  5.11
[Hide Comment] this is my favorite route on the cliff.
Jan 26, 2006
Michael Ybarra
on the road
 
[Hide Comment] A fun route that throws a lot at you. About 150 feet. Bring two ropes to get off. Apr 29, 2012
Derek Newman
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Be careful placing gear at the top of the chockstone. There are multiple .75 camalots tucked deep inside the crack because followers fall below them. If you feel like protecting yourself there, which you probably will because it's the crux, just be sure to clean it when you're standing on top of the chockstone.

That being said, this route is incredible and a must-do for any creek lover. Nov 21, 2016
nathanael
Riverside, CA
 
[Hide Comment] This is an amazing route Apr 24, 2017
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
[Hide Comment] will a 80 meter work for this route? Oct 23, 2019
Andrew Bock
Burlington, VT
[Hide Comment] A full 80m reaches. Tie knots Dec 2, 2021
Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I'm usually pretty ambitious about making 80m ropes work, but mine was nowhere near long enough. Have a 2nd rope handy for shenanigans.

2x0.5, 3x0.75, 6x1, 3x2, 2x3 (use up 2x0.5 and 2x0.75 at the start)
2 double length + 4 single length slings Apr 14, 2023