Type: Trad
FA: Kyle Copeland, Eric Johnson (I Think)
Page Views: 4,261 total · 20/month
Shared By: Brian Shelton on Mar 9, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Route is about a mile up the canyon. It will face you as you walk twards it. Find Bootleg tower (can't miss it)and the route is 100 yards to the right. If looking at it from the approch.


Gear from hands to fists, bring (3)#3's for crux. Two bolt anchor. Funky low moves into a perfect layback, 75 feet. rock is soft and smooth.


What a fun route! If you hate laybacks you should get on this route you will like this one with its super positive edge. A good warmup for the business on Painted Datsun. Stays in the shade. Jun 16, 2004
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
A single 60m rope works for the descent (don't worry about what the book says) Mar 31, 2008
Los Angeles, CA
Fluoride   Los Angeles, CA
Much easier to find the faint 4 wheel drive to the north end of the canyon and walk up that. Then take a much less sloping trail to the base of this. Cairns will lead the way on that side of the canyon. Don't go up when you see bootleg like we did and grovel through sloping loose stuff.

AMAZING route. Glorious fingers, hands. Anchor is good. No one is ever back in Day Canyon and it's gorgeous and a great place to have to yourself with IC quality crack and no crowds.

And yes, a single 60M will get you back to the ground. No reason to bring 2 ropes. Oct 22, 2012
Leavenworth, Washington
Robes   Leavenworth, Washington
Aaaand by #3's they must mean Friends? Solid no2 Camalots on the upper crack. Nice route but not half as good as the beauty next door! Apr 18, 2014
Clip the Chains and keep on going. Pass a short section of big fist or OW to a section of off fingers(crux). Once past the off fingers continue through a pod with fingers to a tips splitter with face features. From the ground is a 40M lead. FA. Karl Kelley. we Called it "Michelles Bitchin Blue Subaru" 5.10+ Sep 4, 2014
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Great route.

(Camalots) #3 or #4 for the first mantle, than a #0.5 or #0.75, and then as many #2s as you want to carry. You can also get a #3 at the base of the main crack. Oct 19, 2014