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Putterman's Big Toe

5.8, Trad,  Avg: 2 from 6 votes
FA: Brian Shelton/Jason Elliott
Utah > Southeast Utah > Grand County > Tusher Canyon > Neighbor Of Putterman
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. DetailsDrop down

Description

Route is on the north side of "Neighbor of Putterman". It is the first crack on your left after you pass The house Of Putterman"

Protection

Rack: hand size and #3 BD for crux. 1-4 RP's Right facing dihedral, low angle start up to vertical at crux. The route is about 50 feet it has no anchors so take RP's. Lower the follower and then throw the rope to him thru a 8 inch break in the wall behind you. Rap off his weight. rope pulls great.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

North Face "Neighbor Of Putterman"
[Hide Photo] North Face "Neighbor Of Putterman"
Ben Colter leading Putterman's Big Toe.
[Hide Photo] Ben Colter leading Putterman's Big Toe.
On top of Putterman's BigToe, which requires a little low 5th class climbing above the anchor.
[Hide Photo] On top of Putterman's BigToe, which requires a little low 5th class climbing above the anchor.
Mark Tjaden cruising the 3rd ascent of Putterman's Big Toe.
[Hide Photo] Mark Tjaden cruising the 3rd ascent of Putterman's Big Toe.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] We added a two pin anchor with slings last week, so the rappel isn't so complicated now. Also, when you use the chimney that forms on the left wall half way up the climb, it drops the grade to 8+ or 9, something like that. Great route! Apr 1, 2002
Brian Shelton
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] A new variation of the line has been done by Mark Tjaden. When you reach the wide section on the left about 3/4 of the way up the route stay half way in it, this makes the route about a grade easier. (Stemming through the crux hands section at the top is a fun and highly recommended line.) We have also added a 2 pin anchor at the top so the rap is now straight forward. Jun 6, 2002
Brian Shelton
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] There is now a two bolt anchor. Make's for a better follow. Sep 3, 2002
[Hide Comment] This area is dirty so be careful, but the challenge of trying to stay in the crack is wicked cool. Keep the Desert clean and untained. Oct 24, 2002
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Did the 9+ grunt crux. I hope I'm not actually beginning to enjoy offwidth! Next time I'll be smart and try the stemming. Apr 27, 2011
Mark Thomas
Broomfield, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] The top has a great anchor. Also, make sure to solo up the final OW to the top of the rock blocks behind! Makes for a fun topout with nice views, and is reasonable to downclimb. Oct 7, 2019