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Dawn of an Age

5.10b, Trad, TR, 50 ft,  Avg: 2.5 from 117 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Blue Gramma Cliff
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A very good fist crack with a 8-10 foot 4-5" section at the top (sporting a few helpful edges). Not quite as clean as the superb "unnamed" just to the right, but well worth it. A short ways up and left from the parking area--look for "unnamed", which is the prominent, super-clean and splitter corner about 50 feet high--this is the next corner left.

Protection

3.5-5" (one 5" piece at the top). Easily top-roped as well, after leading the Unnamed just to the right.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Step 1: make sure you are adequately protected
[Hide Photo] Step 1: make sure you are adequately protected
Step 3: mantle up into the crack
[Hide Photo] Step 3: mantle up into the crack
Step 2: step up
[Hide Photo] Step 2: step up
Makes a perfect warm up
[Hide Photo] Makes a perfect warm up
Stu starting Dawn of an Age
[Hide Photo] Stu starting Dawn of an Age
"Sand" Beguin on another sandbagged Indian Creek classic, Dawn of an Age.
[Hide Photo] "Sand" Beguin on another sandbagged Indian Creek classic, Dawn of an Age.
Some dude from Durango or Gunnison (I can't remember which) who climbed with Zeb or Zeke (again, no memory).  If this is you, I'd love to put a name to the face since you gave us beer.
[Hide Photo] Some dude from Durango or Gunnison (I can't remember which) who climbed with Zeb or Zeke (again, no memory). If this is you, I'd love to put a name to the face since you gave us beer.
5.9+ on the R, Dawn of an Age on the Left
[Hide Photo] 5.9+ on the R, Dawn of an Age on the Left

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dan St. John
Castle Rock
[Hide Comment] 2 x 3 and 2 x 4 will do it. Key, rank the 4 Camalots on the right side. Jul 8, 2002
[Hide Comment] In an announcement that will surely rock the climbing world to it's knees, this is NOT Dawn of an Age!!!! It's located about 0.3 miles before the Blue Gramma parking area, on the southerly side of the prow, in a left-facing corner.

This route is really good though - no disrespect intended. It's just that ever since I did the FA of D of an A, it's been mis-located.

That buttress has three, closely spaced towers on it - I just climbed them with a friend after - like all Creek climbers - seeing them for years on the drive in. I just wrote them up and called it Three Towers Buttress - I'm adding Dawn of an Age there as well. It's fun - go do it! Apr 3, 2015
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Fantastic route. Can use offwidth technique or just lieback the upper wyde section. Dec 1, 2016