Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Ed Webster and Lauren Husted
Page Views: 3,920 total · 16/month
Shared By: Jared Brin on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route goes up the right side of the tower between Easter Island and Thumbelina, left of a big left facing dihedral. Look for a thin hand to a zig-zag offwidth. The first pitch goes up a hand to an offwidth crack, over a bulge with cool liebacks using two cracks to a bolted belay. The second pitch goes up a short, thin crack to easier climbing to another bolted belay. Both pitches are 5.10. The last pitch goes past a bolt above the belay through some hard, bouldery 5.11 moves to a subsidary summit and another bolt. Lean across the gap between this summit and the true summit to a crack, then left to the belay and the top. Don't forget to sign the summit register. One single rap down this pitch, then it is possible to make a double rope rap with 200 foot ropes to the ground.

Protection

Cams of all sizes. It is easy to string the first two pitches together. I used up to a #4 Camalot on the first pitch, and a #3.5 Camalot is also helpful. Also bring some small cams and at least doubles of hand sized pieces. Bring two #2 and a #3 Camalots for the last pitch an a couple quickdraws.

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