Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Ed Webster and Lauren Husted
Page Views: 3,494 total · 16/month
Shared By: Jared Brin on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This route goes up the right side of the tower between Easter Island and Thumbelina, left of a big left facing dihedral. Look for a thin hand to a zig-zag offwidth. The first pitch goes up a hand to an offwidth crack, over a bulge with cool liebacks using two cracks to a bolted belay. The second pitch goes up a short, thin crack to easier climbing to another bolted belay. Both pitches are 5.10. The last pitch goes past a bolt above the belay through some hard, bouldery 5.11 moves to a subsidary summit and another bolt. Lean across the gap between this summit and the true summit to a crack, then left to the belay and the top. Don't forget to sign the summit register. One single rap down this pitch, then it is possible to make a double rope rap with 200 foot ropes to the ground.


Cams of all sizes. It is easy to string the first two pitches together. I used up to a #4 Camalot on the first pitch, and a #3.5 Camalot is also helpful. Also bring some small cams and at least doubles of hand sized pieces. Bring two #2 and a #3 Camalots for the last pitch an a couple quickdraws.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
If you are looking to lighten your load of cams, skip the wide stuff. I think I did it with nothing bigger than a #3 and I didn't run it out much. The first pitch isn't very difficult where it is widest anyway. Feb 28, 2002
Ross Keller
Parker, CO
Ross Keller   Parker, CO
Can be done in a single pitch with suprisingly little rope drag. You'll need a 70m cord, extra hand-sized gear (triple 1-3 Camalots) and 4 or 5 long runners. There's only a single 5.11 move with a good bolt at your waist. Oct 15, 2002
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
I found the first pitch pretty dang challenging (but great climbing) and was glad to have some wide stuff (4 and 5 Camalot - although a second 4 or maybe a 4.5 would be better than a 5). On the last pitch, I aided to clip the bolt and then freed by going way left to start and then back right over the bolt. Would have been pretty scary otherwise. Nov 7, 2002
More pictures and a TR at piquaclimber.net/past/bridg… Jan 6, 2007
m-earle   USA
It is possible to do the whole climb in one pitch with a 60m rope. One double rope (60m)rappel off the east face will take you to the ground. Apr 22, 2007
jason malczyk
General Delivery
jason malczyk   General Delivery
Two new bolts on second anchor. No more taped on hanger. May 4, 2007
JoergB   Germany
p1 and p2 may be good in one pitch, the start of p3 possibly best by traversing left. The description and topo in the Bloom guide are definitely wrong, from the pre-summit its maximum 5.8.
With a double rope, abseil is also possible straight down to the bottom of the chimney and then just walk out the south side. Oct 13, 2009