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Routes in Happy Turk Hoodoo

Happy Turk, The 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Type: Aid
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,934 total, 26/month
Shared By: Dan Russell on Feb 2, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

I'm not sure of the direction (ie east, south) the route faces, only that it faces away from the road. So when you see it from the road driving in, the route is on the backside. It gets morning sun, so you don't have to wait in the winter to get on it.

The route is basically a bolt-ladder of six bolts, with a couple 5.8 moves required to reach the first bolt, and to move from the last bolt to the summit. It's very easy, and the bolts are solid. When we did it, we actually drove the truck right under the route and stood on the roof to reach the first bolt (very lazy, indeed).

On the summit are two good bolts with rap slings.

Protection

Bring 6 quickdraws and aid gear.
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
Park across the road from the sign for Campsite C.

The metal pole is present and very useful! May 21, 2017
Garrett R.
Colorado
Garrett R.   Colorado
We did this on the drive back from Yosemite. I found the high step to the last bolt to be more difficult than anything encountered on the Nose. Bring a hook or expect some very strenuous aiding. May 18, 2017
apoet
AZ
  5.5 C1
apoet   AZ
  5.5 C1
The metal pole is still at the base. All bolts and anchors (2 glue ins) look good. A blue totem and small C3 worked well to make the last move aid. The road is 2WD moderate clearance as of August 2016.

Also, the route is near campsite B. If you get to campsite C you have gone too far. There is another route on the opposite side of the road to check out as well. Aug 7, 2016
Didn't Kevin Chase do the Fa of this tower? Dec 2, 2012
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.8 C1
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.8 C1
Road is still closed to vehicles, but the bar is still there.

First reachy bolt is easier to stick clip if someone stands to the side and instructs the clipper as to the height and rotation of the stick clip.

The links forced me to sacrifice a little distance by clipping draws first and then my aiders. A third aider or clipping aiders in pairs makes the overhanging bulges much easier to deal with.

I managed to get the final reachy bolt by snagging a shallow two-finger divot on my left after high-stepping. This allowed me to stay up just long enough to let go with my right hand, grab a draw, and clip the next bolt. However, if you fall you will probably land on your daisy on the last bolt. I'm 5'9" and this barely worked with some real physical effort. It would be nice to have a #0.75 C4 Camalot or so at the end, either to protect the free move or to get high enough to remove your aiders. I didn't have a cam so I left an aid ladder on the last bolt and freeclimbed to the top in my tennis shoes. Climbing shoes would have been comfier.

The other rapp anchor is still there, but I wanted to clean the route so I figured the single bolt looked good enough.

Great for snowy days.

Fun photos here

Nov 22, 2012
paul bucher
moab, utah
  5.8 A0+
paul bucher   moab, utah
  5.8 A0+
can we call these things C if were clipping bolts? bring a short (4 foot) cheater for the last bolt. it's a bugger. we stopped on the way in and grabbed a tree stick by the creek. there's a 20 foot pipe laying there for the first bolt. great fun in a great spot. easy to find Apr 1, 2012
LahDaBudz
moab, ut
LahDaBudz   moab, ut
the picture shows starting off the truck which is a great idea, but as of this year blm has closed the area to vehicles. still possible if you are willing to take the risk but there is a sign as you drive to the golf ball Jan 25, 2010
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.8 C1
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.8 C1
Um, to be honest I didn't look down the other side. A massive hail storm had moved in so I didn't take any time to investigate - and I figured since the single bolt was so beefy, it must be the rap anchor. So the other anchor is probably still there..... Apr 6, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Hmmm... Odd... A couple months ago there were still two additional chain anchors for rapping down the side of the tower opposite the bolt ladder. Apr 5, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.8 C1
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.8 C1
Only one big, fat 1/2" bolt on the top now..... Apr 4, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
The first bolt is really hard to clip with a stick clip because the hangers are just chain links that are difficult to hook with an open quickdraw. Moving between the first couple bolts is strenuous. Pretty freaking sweet little tower, but the route isn't all the great. Feb 17, 2009
What's up with the chain links?! Why not just regular hangers? It was a pain to stick clip the first one.
Still a fantastic summit and well worth the effort. Feb 2, 2009
the first clip is a pain in the ass to get. brought a stick clip for that one. hangers are 1/4 inch chain. 4th clip is reachy, last clip is reachy. used a stiff draw. last move is committing in approach shoes... i was soloing, simple with sticky rubber shoes. top anchor is 1 single 1/2 inch coldshut. pretty sick fun. yellow alien would make the last move aid instead of free. can't really see a way to climb to the first bolt, again "without a spotter and crash pad."

there are two bolts on the west side to use for rappel as well. Sep 21, 2008
TuFF GonG
gunnison Colorado
  5.11d A0+
TuFF GonG   gunnison Colorado
  5.11d A0+
Free climbing to the first bolt is hard but possible (crash pad and a spot might be a good idea). The bolts after that are a little spaced but I aided it easily with no aiders. If you free climb to the first bolt it is most definitely not 5.8 Sep 12, 2007
Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
Bryan Gartland   Helena, MT
As of March 2007 the bolts are still good and there are several cheater "stick" options for the first clip scattered around the base, courtesy of the old uranium mine up the hill. The thing is precarious but rest assured that it can at least withstand the burden of 3 dudes, a 12-pack and a stout wind. Apr 1, 2007
The route is pretty loose in the middle, I parked right under the route so I could clip the first bolt, bad idea. When I was bringing up my 2nd I could hear rocks hitting my hood. Nov 9, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Every one who wants this one better hurry and climb it soon, while it's still there! Jul 7, 2003
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
According to the Bjornstad guide this goes free at 5.8 - though I have no idea how that is possible as it looks more like hard 5.12. There are a few empty bolt holes leading to the first bolt. You'll either need a really long cheater stick or will have to stand on the roof of a truck to clip the first bolt.

There is also an incredibly long reach between the last two bolts. If you don't want to bring a cheater stick, there is a hook placement that looks a little enhanced that would work.

Neat rock formation. Sep 24, 2002