Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,879 total · 29/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Feb 28, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


It's hard for me to give a fifty foot route 3 stars, but this route deserves it-- a beautiful splitter in a perfect corner, it often appears in guidebooks and climbing magazine photos. Hands, then wide hands with a little arm jam for the last move to the anchors. It is located up and left from the parking pull-off. Look for a large right facing corner, leading to a sandy shelf with anchors about 50 feet up. The next corner to the left is "Dawn of an Age", a 5.10 3-5 inch corner crack which is easily toproped from the anchors.


bring a few 3 friends, a few more 3.5 friends, and maybe a 4 friend for the last move
This route is the back-cover photo (Martha Morris) on Stewart Green's _Rock Climbing Utah_. Picturesque and sustained. Apr 9, 2002
Ben Mottinger

Ben Mottinger    

Really fun and worth doing. Oct 7, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
A good or great rout, but a classic? Can you seriously compare this to Pente, Black Corner, Spaggetti Western, Primrose Dihedrals or Vision Quest?

Hand-size dependent. Nov 13, 2002
Just a comment (as a research scientist in earth science) on Charles' description of this route as a "splitter" - Supercrack is a splitter, this route is a dihedral. Looks beautiful though! Aug 6, 2003
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
Can be done with two 3.0 friends, five 3.5 friends, and one 4.0 friend (or 2 gold #2, 5 blue #3, and 1 black #3.5 camalot), if you want to sew it up. Its only 50 feet, and the 3.0 won't fit after the first 15 feet. Mar 18, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
A good warm-up for the other routes at the cliff. I would recommend several #3 (blue) camalots, and 1 larger (3.5 or 4) piece for the top. Nov 14, 2006
JoshuaTreeRunner David
Los Angeles
JoshuaTreeRunner David   Los Angeles
Excellent warmup. One of my favorites. Average-sized hands all the way. A small wide section at the top (4 friend). Nov 26, 2007
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
Upon review, even placing a lot of pro, 4 #3 camalots, 2 #3.5 camalots and one optional (aka chicken) #4 camalot for the very top will almost over protect this route. Also, a plaque has appeared, dubbing this thing the "Mexican Unicorn", but is of dubious provenance. Still 5.9. Mar 23, 2008
inside the Bubble, Colorado
Sorden   inside the Bubble, Colorado
I'm guessing it probably wasn't the first ascensionist who took the liberty of naming this route " Mexican Unicorn." If we're going to start naming all the best "unnamed" or "no name" routes in the Creek, then I hereby declare the 5.10 "No-Name Crack" on Supercrack Buttress will forever hence be known as "Hand-Job Love Fest." Mike Sanders came up with this very clever and appropriate name for the previously unnamed classic years ago, but we didn't have the courage to be so presumptuous or arrogant as to name it for the world since we didn't climb it first. Thank you, unnamed namer, for giving us the inspiration to change history for our own satisfaction. Sep 2, 2008

i agree, the addition of plaques 25 years after the fact is completely Rob Halford (ie ghey). Sep 3, 2008
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
good warm up.....4 blue camolots and approach shoes make this worthwile Dec 12, 2008
Agreed, four blues is all you need. May 28, 2009
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
Brilliant, even if short. I only had 2 3.5 Friends so had to use a DMM No. 4 in the upper section which inevitably got stuck. Whoever gets it out is welcome to keep it - and it's nearly new! Hard to grade this route as you keep repeating the same straightforward move all the way up but this gets more than a bit tiring after a while - in UK terms E1 4c perhaps? It's like a much more sustained version of Flake Crack at Helsby. Oct 27, 2009
The Bloom guidebook says this route has an 'offwidth second pitch'. This second pitch seems to be only about 20ft, up to a ledge with another set of anchors, and a couple of #6 Camalots will protect it.

THere is also a long (about 70m from the station atop p1) chimney above that pitch. Be careful of loose rock on the ledge atop p2, and head deep into the chimney, then aim for daylight. There are options for gear placements from tcu's to 4 inches on the chimney's right-hand wall, and there is an offwidth on the left that will take plenty of gear up to about twelve inches. The rock is of questionalbe quality throughout the pitch and you'd want two ropes to get off the top. Apr 28, 2012
Great warm up, cool down, or beginner lead in the Creek. Jan 29, 2015