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Gorilla

5.10, Trad,  Avg: 3.2 from 359 votes
FA: Chip Chace and Steve Levin, 1978
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Supercrack Buttress
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

Located approx. 80 feet right of IHC, this route is a slightly left-leaning splitter on the right wall of a dihedral. It intersectes the corner crack about 30 feet from the bolt anchors. It starts as tight hands, negotiates two awesome offwidth pods, pulls through some sustained wide hands, and meets the dihedral, which is good to tight hands. A steller climb that goes on and on, you never want it to stop.

Protection

A full 30 metre pitch. Bring 3-5 each 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5 Friends, and 2 4 Friends.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

If you know the route you'll see the climber on it... otherwise you may ask yourself where IS Waldo anyway
[Hide Photo] If you know the route you'll see the climber on it... otherwise you may ask yourself where IS Waldo anyway
getting through an awkward pod
[Hide Photo] getting through an awkward pod
Cold February and the tea isn'ty enough to warn up the belayer this morning .
[Hide Photo] Cold February and the tea isn'ty enough to warn up the belayer this morning .
freezing cold February moring to be leading this. Can't feel ma hand. need whiskey
[Hide Photo] freezing cold February moring to be leading this. Can't feel ma hand. need whiskey
Gorilla
[Hide Photo] Gorilla
Steph leading Gorilla for her class.  Oct 2016.
[Hide Photo] Steph leading Gorilla for her class. Oct 2016.
Gorilla
[Hide Photo] Gorilla
Gorilla
[Hide Photo] Gorilla
5.10a
[Hide Photo] 5.10a
Colt cruising Gorilla Crack.
[Hide Photo] Colt cruising Gorilla Crack.
Not many Van lifers here in February, Ha, Grumpyhighlander
[Hide Photo] Not many Van lifers here in February, Ha, Grumpyhighlander
Gorilla
[Hide Photo] Gorilla

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] If you bury a leg in one of the pods, you can get a great no-hands rest (you won't be pumped at this point, but it's a great pose.) Slightly awkward down low through the wider stuff... Nice route. I think I used a #4 camalot. Nov 30, 2001
[Hide Comment] Not too bad if you have big mitts. Oct 29, 2008
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] First Ascent from Bjornstad, 1988:

Chip Chace and Steve Levin, 1978 Oct 22, 2009
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] how the heck does this not get 4 stars! great route and a nice warmup. the pods may be a little tricky but the route offers plenty of rest steps. Nov 9, 2009
[Hide Comment] Clip the chains and continue out around the roof to a 2 bolt belay stance. Continue up the flare with hands but shortly going to off fingers. A long pitch finishes with fingers to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.11+ Rap the route.
FA. Karl Kelley Sep 4, 2014
[Hide Comment] A nice break from the relentlessly mechanical climbing nearby. Great variety in a long, aesthetic pitch. There's something for everyone here but the business is on big hands. Mar 23, 2015
Miguel D
SLC
[Hide Comment] Might be somewhere around 28 meters, you can definitely top rope it with a 60m rope Jul 29, 2015
Geoff Georges
Seattle, WA
  5.10
[Hide Comment] as already said mostly big to cupped hands, nice to have 2) #4 for pods, and save some #.5, .75, #1 for the top. May 2, 2016
Sam Felch
Big Sky, MT
[Hide Comment] Like sweet cream butter...mmm Jun 6, 2020