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No Name Crack

5.10, Trad,  Avg: 3.1 from 166 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Supercrack Buttress
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This fine big hands crack is located just left of Gemini (Twin ) cracks. A dark varnished corner begins with a short rectangular pillar. All sizes from hands to fists and maybe some Odub for small folks.

Protection

A lot of #2 and #3 Camalot, two #4s, and 1 #1 Camalot at the top as a last placement. I loved this route.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Won't be smiling before too long
[Hide Photo] Won't be smiling before too long
Classic!
[Hide Photo] Classic!
No Name Crack
[Hide Photo] No Name Crack
No Name Crack
[Hide Photo] No Name Crack
this is a great climb!
[Hide Photo] this is a great climb!
Greg K at the base of No Name Crack
[Hide Photo] Greg K at the base of No Name Crack
The cruxes are 1/3 and 2/3 up the route at wide spots.  You might consider back cleaning your #3 camalots at thinner sections, unless you have an arsenal of big hand cams.
[Hide Photo] The cruxes are 1/3 and 2/3 up the route at wide spots. You might consider back cleaning your #3 camalots at thinner sections, unless you have an arsenal of big hand cams.
Tony Bubb follows No Name crack, ~2001. Photo by Joseffa Meir(?)
[Hide Photo] Tony Bubb follows No Name crack, ~2001. Photo by Joseffa Meir(?)
[Hide Photo] untitled

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
[Hide Comment] This route is to the left of 3 am crack and also starts on a small pillar in a right-facing dihedral. It can be distinguished from 3 am by being a bit wider and lacking a roof. Another beauty of a climb. Nov 25, 2001
Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
 
[Hide Comment] I liked this route even better than Incredible Hand Crack or 3AM Crack. Look for the no hands rest (which I missed) halfway up. It can be done with a 60 meter rope, barely, but be very careful--one or two downclimbing moves might be necessary. The smaller pillar at the start is loose, so pull gingerly! Apr 15, 2002
[Hide Comment] i've heard not just a few people refer to this as the "4am crack" - its similar but slightly bigger than 3am, right facing corner, etc. - mayber better than yet another nameless crack at the creek - Oct 21, 2005
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10
[Hide Comment] This was one of my favorite climbs of our trip. I have big hands, so it was more of an "incredible hand crack" for me than was the real "Incredible Hand Crack." Jul 17, 2007
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
[Hide Comment] Indistinguishable from 3am crack. They're the same!! Nov 6, 2008
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
5.10
[Hide Comment] Sustained and clean...highly recommended Dec 24, 2013
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
[Hide Comment] This thing is fantastic for those of us blessed with big hands. Bring a healthy helping of #2s and #3s (I enjoyed having about 5 of each). This thing is sustained. A .4 or so slots nicely on the little crack on the left to save a piece at the start. A #1 will fit in at the top. Mar 8, 2015
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] Take a few #4's for the starting block and the small pods. Lots of #3's for the sustained hands. We used a 70m but surprisingly had quite a bit of rope left. Oct 13, 2015
Mark van Eijk
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Just as good or better than the named classics at supercrack buttress. Big hands in a corner forever with a few surprises. Plenty of 2s and 3s with a 4 for one of the pods and a 1 for the top. Get on it! Aug 13, 2016