Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Earl Wiggins
Page Views: 123,069 total · 529/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Oct 13, 2001 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is, well, super.

Originally named Luxury Liner, this line has adopted the name Super Crack. Climb up the side of the detached flake (1.5 or 2 Friend) through the awkward crux (maybe 10c) to a top-of-the-flake ledge right below the crack. Although decent gear is available, groundfalls have occurred here, so heads-up. Climb the crack (sustained 5.9) for 80 feet, past the roof to a bolted anchor. While I typically don't like to give away the detailed beta, I'll make an exception here: hand jam, foot jam, hand jam, foot jam ... The crack widens a bit for the last 15 feet, so depending on the size of your mitts, you may have to revise this beta to include a cupped hand or two, and maybe even a fist.

A 60m rope will just barely reach from the anchor for the rappel/TR. While it probably goes without saying, TR through draws and not the anchor.

New full-length film from Rock and Ice on the first ascent of this line: rockandice.com/videos/climb…

Protection

One 1.5 or 2 Friend, 5 or 6 #3 Friends, and 2 or 3 #4 Friends. A blue TCU can also be used for additional pro on the crux.

Location

Hike up to Supercrack Buttress and find the largest queue. If this doesn't help you locate the route, look left of the ruins, finding the obvious splitter hand crack above a large flake, going through a small roof and cleaving the blank face above in an unbroken line another 60 feet or so above the roof. An impressive line that's hard to miss.

Photos