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Routes in Supercrack Buttress

24 Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
24 Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
3AM Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
? T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Amaretto Corner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Anasazi T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bad Rad Duality T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Binge and Purge T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bongo Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fat Free T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fingers In A Lightsocket T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fledge TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gorilla T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Incredible Hand Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
International Affair T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Sooper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Affair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Legend of Creepy Hollow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Man Who Knew Too Little, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Name Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuclear Waste T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On-Slot, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Painted Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pigs in a Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pink Flamingo T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pringles T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Savelli Crack T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Super Surprised T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Supercrack of the Desert T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Supershack V2- 5+
Too Much Cake T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Triple Jeopardy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Left of The Wave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown Right of Too Much Cake T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown on far left side of wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Finger Crack Between Wild Works of Fire & IHC T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wild Works of Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Zow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
super bubbushka T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Earl Wiggins
Page Views: 99,077 total, 503/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Oct 13, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is, well, super.

Climb up the side of the detached flake (1.5 or 2 Friend) through the awkward crux (maybe 10c) to a top-of-the-flake ledge right below the crack. Although decent gear is available, groundfalls have occurred here, so heads-up. Climb the crack (sustained 5.9) for 80 feet, past the roof to a bolted anchor. While I typically don't like to give away the detailed beta, I'll make an exception here: hand jam, foot jam, hand jam, foot jam ... The crack widens a bit for the last 15 feet, so depending on the size of your mitts, you may have to revise this beta to include a cupped hand or two, and maybe even a fist.

A 60m rope will just barely reach from the anchor for the rappel/TR. While it probably goes without saying, TR through draws and not the anchor.

Protection

One 1.5 or 2 Friend, 5 or 6 #3 Friends, and 2 or 3 #4 Friends. A blue TCU can also be used for additional pro on the crux.

Location

Hike up to Supercrack Buttress and find the largest queue. If this doesn't help you locate the route, look left of the ruins, finding the obvious splitter hand crack above a large flake, going through a small roof and cleaving the blank face above in an unbroken line another 60 feet or so above the roof. An impressive line that's hard to miss.

Photos

While getting onto the pedestal is definitely the technical crux, the hardest part for me is just enduring to the anchors. I have relatively small hands and the #3 Camalot-sized crack feels insecure and drains me. I think this is a MUCH harder crack than the Incredible Hand Crack (which is trivial except for the overhanging twenty foot section) and much harder than the perfect #2 Camalot crack of Generic Crack. I also find it harder than any other 5.10 crack that I have done in this area - mainly because of my hand size, but also because there is no chance for rest (unlike many of other 5.10 cracks like Generic Hand Crack, IHC, Gorilla Crack, Keyhole Flake, etc.) Hence, I think the crack itself is solid 5.10, not 5.9. Your hand size (and opinion) will vary, of course. Nov 29, 2001
Dan Evans
Phoenix, AZ
 
Dan Evans   Phoenix, AZ
 
A #4 does not fit in the crack until you reach the pod that is level with the anchors. It is 2-3" the entire way. Although the #4 is nice to have as the exit move to the chains is a bit cruxy--especially if you are pumped out.

For someone at their limit who places frequently, I would recommend (1) 0.5), (1) 0.75, (4) #2, (8) #3, and (1) #4. The 0.5 and 0.75 just give you more options to protect the crux down low. Great route. 3 days ago
Rob T  
Late reply to Moritz, last pitch starts in a corner before going left on obvious soft features. You top out a bit left of the top rap anchor. After that rap the rap route follows the line. I wouldn't recommend topping this line out if there is any sort of crowd around, a bit of loose rock on the final pitch. Mar 28, 2017
Walter Galli
Sint Maarten
Walter Galli   Sint Maarten
Amazing, I was born in 1976, the best looking crack ever... Oct 9, 2016
I brought 5 #3s, and that felt about right. I personally would not want to climb it with fewer #3s. Apr 20, 2015
Ryan Arnold
  5.10
Ryan Arnold  
  5.10
I only brought 2 #2 camalots and it wasn't enough for me. I'd want to place a #2 in the initial corner about 10 feet up, then four in the first 30 feet of the crack proper. If I do this again, I'll bring:

one finger sized cam
five #2 camalots
four #3 camalots, more if I don't have #3.5
2-3 #3.5 or #4 Dec 15, 2014
Moritz B.
  5.10
Moritz B.  
  5.10
Does Anyone have beta on pitch three and about getting off the cliff? Do you rappell the route? Nov 10, 2014
AST
AST  
I did this route just once, in 1996 or 1997 or so. I led it onsight, by the light of the full moon and my headlamp (no led lamps back then, sadly).

I could swear the guide at the time listed it as 5.9 or 5.9+. So, I took a pretty casual attitude towards it. I remember being sketched out of my mind on the moves up onto the pedestal. In no small part because I could not see what I was doing at all. The moonlight was blocked, and those old school little headlamps were weak sauce.

After 20 minutes of hemming and hawing, up and down, I finally committed and got past that part. The rest of it was a pretty surreal experience. I don't remember the crack proper feeling any harder than say, Reed's direct. But, I have big meaty hands.

I do remember thinking the whole experience felt very hard for 5.9, but I chalked that one up to doing without sunlight.

The next night we did the Kor Ingalls in the same style. That was a very interesting road trip. Jan 29, 2014
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10
+1 for defiant cruxes. They're the shit. Oct 13, 2012
Ryan N
Bellingham, WA
Ryan N   Bellingham, WA
The beginning is defiantly the technical crux of the route. Very greasy but well protected. The first 20ft is perfect #2 thru the roof then it opens up to #3 and becomes pumpy. Good climb, though I suggest hitting it in the AM when the sun is not so bad. Oct 13, 2012
NickinCO
colorado
  5.9
NickinCO   colorado
  5.9
Great climb. I didn't feel the opening moves were any harder than 5.9. Maybe harder for shorter people, I'm 6'1 Oct 10, 2012
Ross Hokett
Little Rock, AR
Ross Hokett   Little Rock, AR
this is an excellent pitch if you have large hands to me was much easier than the generic crack. The starting flake was by far the hardest part for me off the ledge a few #2's and then #3's the rest of the way up. Jun 26, 2012
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.10
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.10
Like everyone says. Wide hands, wide hands, wide hands. Bring a lot of blues and a couple yellows for the very start of the crack. I protected the boulder problem start with a yellow c4 before the move and a yellow alien after it (my friend used a #4 after it).

Beautiful crack. Our last climb of the trip and it was just fun fun fun to the anchors. Use your feet! Apr 20, 2012
e Dixon
Durango, Colorado
 
e Dixon   Durango, Colorado
 
P2 (~100', 5.10) Mostly thuggish cups/fists with a couple wider spots and some hands deep in there too. Seemed to eat up #2/3 Camalots and a #4 is nice to have. Ends at 2 bolts & 2 drilled angles. Feb 2, 2012
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.10
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.10
Hard to grade even in (or especially in) the UK system, so simply 5.10 is the best call. Technical crux in the first 20' would be worth UK HVS 5b. The individual moves on the main crack are probably no more than UK 4c but it goes on for so long - arms programmed for the maximum 40'-50' length of gritstone cracks (like mine) just give up! Oct 16, 2010
Hamlet73
Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Hamlet73   Boulder, CO
  5.10+
This route seem to get bigger every passing year. It seems to take mostly #2 until right after the roof and then #3 BD Camalots to the anchors. It is wide for me after the roof, and I cannot use fists until the very top.

Much Harder than IHC. Nov 18, 2009
The third pitch of Supercrack is excellent. Bring triples of #00 and #0 tcus and doubles of the other small sizes and you'll be protected. I would call this one of the better Wingate stemming corners. The crack is too small for your fingertips but there are lots of small holds and the rock is perfect so the tiny cams seem good to whip on. Go straight up off the belay, through the thin crux and to a stance where you can either go straight up on crumbly rock with no gear or traverse left on a ramp and head up the next crack system. I went left. Once you summit, you can walk back right and rap straight down the plumb line of the first two and a half pitches. There are two fixed anchors above the one everyone usually stops at. Bring two ropes. Nov 6, 2009
Sean Wolf
Denver, CO
  5.10
Sean Wolf   Denver, CO
  5.10
I was pretty intimidated attempting this climb as a my 2nd trad lead. I blew a clip under the roof and landed on the pedestal. But I got back up and eventually finished. I was so pumped that while trying to clip the chains my hands slipped and took a pretty deece whip. Good thing it was the last climb of the trip because I was completely exhausted afterwords. Jun 8, 2009
JoergB
Germany
JoergB   Germany
I did this '91 and I remember that it should have even 3 pitches. I also did the 2nd pitch, and it was wider (fist and ow) but easier, so I did not mind that only one of my friends was usable as pro. The 3rd pitch was finger crack, supposed to be 5.11, and as I had absolutely no gear for that, I did not attempt it. There was another abseil bolt at the end of P2. Mar 11, 2009
A #2 camalot and a yellow mastercam protect the technical crux at the bottom. Once in the crack, a #2 will work for about 10 feet after the roof. Also, crowds weren't a problem, I didn't see many people near supercrack. Dec 3, 2008
Bingman
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10
Bingman   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10
As I understand it, this was first done as a two pitch route. Anyone have beta on P2? Are there anchors up top? Does the rock stay good? Grade? Gear? Thanks! Nov 14, 2008
Buster Jesik
Allenspark, CO
  5.9+
Buster Jesik   Allenspark, CO
  5.9+
The new plaque is beautiful, leave it alone. If this isn't a 4 star pitch I don't know what is. Oct 27, 2008
slim

  5.10b
slim    
  5.10b
the plaque is pretty unnecessary. earl is probably rolling over in his grave. Aug 14, 2008
Jaaron Mankins
Durango, CO
Jaaron Mankins   Durango, CO
This thing really is a beauty. Last two times on it, we were the only ones in the lot. The new plaque is very nice, there was also a new plaque by Coyne Crack. Aug 13, 2008
Brian Becker and Ed Webster were also part of the first ascent party. Jul 29, 2008
percious
Bear Creek, CO
percious   Bear Creek, CO
Here is a link to a video of Catherine Destivelle soloing this impressive climb:

youtube.com/watch?v=nGNfeVA…

Beautiful to watch. Scary though.

-chris Jan 17, 2008
JoshuaTreeRunner David
Los Angeles
 
JoshuaTreeRunner David   Los Angeles
 
love this route. i always come here and climb this at least once. endurance is the key. Nov 26, 2007
evan
seattle
 
evan   seattle
 
i'll start off by saying i haven't done a great deal of climbing in indian creek: but i did truly enjoy leading this route. in my opinion, it is definitely a classic and a must climb for the creek.
a lot of climbers have added good and valid info about this climb, some of which i agree with, some of which i don't. that's the double edged sword of mountainproject- everyone can speak their mind, but don't ever take anything on this site as absolute.
it is my opinion that:
getting onto the pedestal is the technical crux.
protect the technical crux as to not hit the ground (#2 with a runner works well, avoids rope drag)
if your hands are perfect for incredible hand crack- this will feel bigger
if so-wear long sleeves or go to work with nasty scabs (but be proud!)
before the roof- #2 camalots fit perfectly
after the roof you won't need anything but #3 camalots- i think i had 5
have fun Jun 20, 2007
Braxtron
...
  5.10+
Braxtron   ...
  5.10+
I agree, getting to the pedestal = technical crux. Just blast through it. I don't suggest getting pumped early by placing anything; it's not that high anyway. Like all splitter cracks, this one is hand-size dependent. If you have larger-than-average hands, you'll cruise the top 1/3. If you have normal hands (perfect for Incredible Hand Crack), you'll find the top section to be a bit of a beyatch. Heavy on the #1-#3 Camalots.

Oh yea, OVER-RATED. Feb 4, 2007
Brad Schildt
Boulder, CO
 
Brad Schildt   Boulder, CO
 
Additional beta: this is a good climb to wear a long sleeved shirt. Better yet, tape it around your wrists, so that when you show up at work the next day you don't have to explain those nasty scabs covering the insides of your wrists and forearms. Aug 19, 2002
the first move is solid 10c the next 10 feet is a debatable 9+ with the next three moves a solid 10a. The following eleven moves are 10b/c, with moves 15-37 10b. moves 37-42 are 10b as well. May 17, 2002
Darin Lang  
 
Now, Charles ... "heavy and slow" is our motto. I followed Bernard up this climb (he of the oversized rack in the photo below), and he placed exactly 3 #3 Camalots. The first was quite tight, and a #2 (Camalot) would have worked. Nonetheless, you're probably right, and I should modify my gear beta above by recommending that you take 3 or 4 #4 Friends, and two 3.5 Friends.

Or ... just take 5 or 6 #3 Camalots. As Charles notes, these fit better than anything in the upper section of the climb. Apr 1, 2002
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
I wouldn't enjoy leading Supercrack with the gear list in this description. #3 friends are only really nice for the first 30 ft. or so of the crack proper. After that they get pretty tipped out, and 3.5 friends fit much better, if a little tight. But 3 camalots are absolutely perfect for the final 50 feet and I'd recommend bringing more of that thatn any other piece if you can get it.

I would add that the climber in the photo below seems to be carrying an awful lot of #3 camalots! Feb 2, 2002
Darin Lang  
 
Bill, Mike, and George all make excellent points, consistent with my own limited experience at Indian Creek. It seems that adding letter grades to the routes at IC wouldn't really give any useful information, and most of the route submissions on this site so far seem to recognize this. As far as Supercrack goes, I think the best consensus is that it is "5.10". Some may think it is 10a, some may think it's 10d+. Strangely, everyone would be right. Nov 30, 2001
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
Those of us with big hands find Incredible Hand Crack (IHC) technically harder. Supercrack is way enduro, but I find I can hand jam it all the way (although the start is thin hands and I am really cupped out near the anchors). The crux of IHC is short (relatively), but it is desperate thin hands for me. I have heard that IHC is slowly getting wider (and likely Supercrack too), so in 10 years or so the ratings may have to be revised! Nov 29, 2001