Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,119 total · 25/month
Shared By: Jason Wells on Nov 2, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Short, but fun. Almost dead center in the Battle of the Bulge buttress between the cave and Jane Fonda's. Look for the 30' climb with a large flake resting at the base and small roof 10' above it. Scramble to the top of the flake, take a rest after a move and jam past the little roof. Cruise through the widening crack to a nice ledge on the right.

I saw a guide book (can't remember which one) with 5.8+ on the topo, but most will agree that there's a tough move or two getting off the flake and past the roof (9+?).

Protection

Singles from a #.75 Camalot to a #3 Camalot. Nice climb for those with a little rack.

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Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
 
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
 
Yeah, definitely harder than 5.8+... Feb 19, 2002
I lead pretty hard, onsight 5.11 and I BACKED OFF this route.....Not 5.8+! Mar 18, 2003
Ryan Deppen
  5.8+
Ryan Deppen  
  5.8+
Although it may be harder than 5.8, the climb is a one move wonder from the stance just above the detached flake. From there it's cruiser hands. Just my $.02 Aug 25, 2004
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I thought it was rated 5.9 in the book... Whatever, I guess. It stills falls in the category of "5.fun". Apr 12, 2007
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
cool little warm up. short. would say it's a 9. Mar 31, 2008
James DeRoussel
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
James DeRoussel   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
A great route for your first IC lead. One move at 5.9 really, and the rest is sinker hands. Great pro. Jun 20, 2008
TNT92592
Temecula, CA
TNT92592   Temecula, CA
As a climber new to crack climbing this was a good route to develop technique of combination of crack and face climbing Apr 2, 2010
fun short and varied with a tricky move or two off the flake Oct 23, 2010
Keith W
  5.9
Keith W  
  5.9
This route packs a bit of everything in a short amount of time. .4 - 3 if you want to zipper it shut. The feet make it 5.9 another short one worth your time. May 1, 2017