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Binou's Crack

5.8+, Trad,  Avg: 2.7 from 590 votes
FA: Sabine & Michel Jourdan
Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Donnelly Canyon
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Classic moderate climb. Very popular. Starts in a right facing corner next to the neon sign that says "Binou's" (actually just pecked into the rock - probably by Indians). Jam the crack until it gets tiny and a nice wide crack opens on the left, take a nice rest on a great knee jam, and scoot on up to the top.

Protection

A few #1 and #.75 Camalots, maybe a #2 Camalot (be sure to take a look first, I can't really remember), and a mix of Aliens or similiar small pro at the top. Instead of the small stuff, you can use big pro for the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The anchors are that way! Anna B's first send in the creek.
[Hide Photo] The anchors are that way! Anna B's first send in the creek.
@theclimbingjuju resting on a little ledge
[Hide Photo] @theclimbingjuju resting on a little ledge
Hard to mistake this crack for some other climb...
[Hide Photo] Hard to mistake this crack for some other climb...
Climb the wide crack on the left or the fingercrack on the right, or a mix of both.
[Hide Photo] Climb the wide crack on the left or the fingercrack on the right, or a mix of both.
Ben nearing the finger crack top.
[Hide Photo] Ben nearing the finger crack top.
binous stylin
[Hide Photo] binous stylin
Derek leading Binou's nice and early.  Only people out there.
[Hide Photo] Derek leading Binou's nice and early. Only people out there.
Ben having a tough time on the smaller finger holds.  Probably wishing it was Supercrack
[Hide Photo] Ben having a tough time on the smaller finger holds. Probably wishing it was Supercrack
Binou's
[Hide Photo] Binou's
nearing the chains on binou's
[Hide Photo] nearing the chains on binou's
binou's from the chains
[Hide Photo] binou's from the chains
Deb handling the top section (best NOT to get sucked into that crack on the left face).
[Hide Photo] Deb handling the top section (best NOT to get sucked into that crack on the left face).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This is a great leading intro to Indian Creek, but if you're a beginner, don't get to overconfident after ticking this one. Although, you can purely jam this for most of it, there are some wall features that allow for stemming and foot-outta-the-crack rests. The top will be a little more awkward if you have big fingers. Smaller hands will be able to get some good fingers in the thin crack. Doubles of the small stuff (blue, green, yellow aliens) can be useful if you're feeling nervous. Super-fun climb. Mar 25, 2002
Ben Mottinger

  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Atypical route for IC, but a lot of fun.

Better than twin cracks at Supercrack Buttress, but for its grade, it's not too bad. Oct 7, 2002
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] This is an easy 8 - certainly not a 9. Fun climb and a good route for people who haven't jammed much, Mar 29, 2004
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
[Hide Comment] This is about as classic as it can get for the grade. Bring a few smaller pieces for the top. Unfortunate that "Binou's Crack" has been etched into the base of the wall. I guess that was before LNT practices. Nov 14, 2006
[Hide Comment] The FA of this was by Sabine & Michel Jourdan, who run Le Perroquet Vert, a really cool restaurant/hotel/gear store right at the Verdon Gorge. Nov 14, 2006
GhaMby Eagan
Heaven
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Maybe 8 to the first anchors, but solid 9 to the second, I think. Jan 12, 2007
[Hide Comment] I didnt not actually climbs this route but rather a variation to it. I went straight up the crack on the left face (finger stacks to finger locks and once that closed out I transfered to the finger tip layback section on the top. I did not stem and did not use the wide crack at top. was a really fun and demanding variation. May 20, 2011
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Fun second route in the Creek. Lots of places to rest and do sort of face climbing. Great introduction to get you feeling confident. Also a variety of gear to place. Apr 20, 2012
B. Smith
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] To add to the description of the gear, I used about (1) #1, (3).75s, (3).5s, (1-2).4s and maybe a .3.

This was my first Indian Creek climb and I had a lot of fun on it.

There are current three bolts at the anchor, and two of them are spinning. All look like they are in ok shape. May 27, 2014
T Dz
Golden
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Gets a little weird at the top, you have the option to to tips jams in a corner or nestle inside the sinuous offwidth... I used both Nov 3, 2014
Devon Hastings
Merrimack
 
[Hide Comment] I loved this route, although I did the 1 inch crack on the left wall and found it to be the best pure ring lock crack I'd climbed up until that point. Does anyone know if climbing that is similar to climbing say "The Angry Inch", "Winner Take All" or like any other ring locky cracks? And does anyone know what the Binou's 1 inch variation would go at relative to creek grading? Jan 9, 2019