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The Tapeworm [Suggest Change]
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A3 R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Echo Tower
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Bad Religons T A5- |
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Iron Chef, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3+ |
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Phantom Sprint 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Run Amok 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
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Sidewinder T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1+ |
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Tapeworm, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
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| Type: | Aid, Grade V |
| FA: | Brad Jarret and Brian Warsaw |
| Page Views: | 1,334 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Folsom on Oct 24, 2001 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description [Suggest Change]
This is a good steep aid line that climbs the Southeast face of the formation between Deadmans Party and Run Amok. To approach, hike the trail to inbetween Cottontail Tower and the Titan and hike up the hill to the base of the route.
P1- This used to be some free climbing and some tricky moves but unfortunately somebody has drilled a bolt ladder. Climb the bolt ladder to the ledge directly below Run Amok. Traverse left on the ledge until you come to thin cracks that rise from the left end of the ledge.
P2- Difficult thin nailing on a very steep wall to a hanging belay at bolts. (A3+)
P3- Moderate nailing in a right leaning corner which progressively gets harder and scarier until you reach another hanging belay at bolts. (A3)
P4- Climb the steep mud curtain above and into a chimney system with nailing and hooking. The belay is from bolts on the outside of the chimney on the right side. (A3)
P5- Climb a bolt ladder to some 5.9 free climbing in a chimney (really good) When the free climbing runs out, climb another long bolt ladder to a shallow alcove. Above the alcove some very shallow knifeblade moves will get you to a small diving board formation where you make a mantle. From there, a difficult move gets you to another short bolt ladder and another hanging belay. (A3+)
P6- Nail a moderate corner and then more difficult aid to the top of the tower.
To descend, rappel the opposite side of the tower from the routes final anchors down a deep, wide chimney called the bowels of the tapeworm. Its 4 or 5 raps to get down. The descent is clean and hassle free.
John Slezak and I did the second ascent of this route in full winter conditions in December of 1994. We climbed it without fixed ropes and bivied in portaledges for three nights. It was cold, and for the first three days there were blizzards of snow and slush. One storm happened while John was leading the chimney on pitch four. I was at the belay and mud and water poured out of the chimney next to me for a couple hours. It was like being next to a chocolate waterfall. The final day of the climb was my 19th birthday. The summit was a good birthday present.
P1- This used to be some free climbing and some tricky moves but unfortunately somebody has drilled a bolt ladder. Climb the bolt ladder to the ledge directly below Run Amok. Traverse left on the ledge until you come to thin cracks that rise from the left end of the ledge.
P2- Difficult thin nailing on a very steep wall to a hanging belay at bolts. (A3+)
P3- Moderate nailing in a right leaning corner which progressively gets harder and scarier until you reach another hanging belay at bolts. (A3)
P4- Climb the steep mud curtain above and into a chimney system with nailing and hooking. The belay is from bolts on the outside of the chimney on the right side. (A3)
P5- Climb a bolt ladder to some 5.9 free climbing in a chimney (really good) When the free climbing runs out, climb another long bolt ladder to a shallow alcove. Above the alcove some very shallow knifeblade moves will get you to a small diving board formation where you make a mantle. From there, a difficult move gets you to another short bolt ladder and another hanging belay. (A3+)
P6- Nail a moderate corner and then more difficult aid to the top of the tower.
To descend, rappel the opposite side of the tower from the routes final anchors down a deep, wide chimney called the bowels of the tapeworm. Its 4 or 5 raps to get down. The descent is clean and hassle free.
John Slezak and I did the second ascent of this route in full winter conditions in December of 1994. We climbed it without fixed ropes and bivied in portaledges for three nights. It was cold, and for the first three days there were blizzards of snow and slush. One storm happened while John was leading the chimney on pitch four. I was at the belay and mud and water poured out of the chimney next to me for a couple hours. It was like being next to a chocolate waterfall. The final day of the climb was my 19th birthday. The summit was a good birthday present.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Full aid rack- Pins from beaks to big angles, two sets of cams from tiny to #4 Camalot. Micro nuts, stoppers and hooks.
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