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Routes in Queen Pin

Dairy Queen S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Off With Their Heads S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Queen's Gambit, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Standard Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 838 total, 5/month
Shared By: Kevin Fons on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Climb up the gully south of Super pin to end up at the base of Queen Pin on the east side facing between Queen Pin and Tricouni. This is the leftmost (south) of the 3 new routes and the easiest of the three. A farly well protected and enjoyable line.


All bolts


Tater Tot
Custer, SD
Tater Tot   Custer, SD
I think the new Queen Pin routes were bolted on rappel. I did not feel that Dairy Queen climbed smooth like a lead bolted route. Also, according to Touch the Sky:

(won't get the quote perfect but something like this...)

"It is preferable that the top rope problems on the Cerberus side of Queen Pin should remain top rope problems, as the steepness of the rock would likely make it difficult to bolt them on lead." Jul 31, 2009
This is one of several routes in the Needles area bolted on rappel, with a bosch or hilti. Aug 27, 2004
Was this route bolted on rappel or on the lead?The stances seem difficult to drill from a free stance.What is the deal with the funky spinner nuts? Aug 27, 2004