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The Great Chimney AKA The Great Dihedral

5.8, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 14 votes
FA: Don Lefevre and Jim Slichter-1975 Ground Up
S Dakota > Needles Of Rush… > Mt Rushmore Nat… > Chopping Block > Chopping Block
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Description

Also known as The Great Dihedral. This is the obvious chimney/dihedral to the right of Meat Means Murder. The first 1/3 takes very good pro, but becomes non-existant after pulling over the slight overhang and climbing into the off-width chimney. The chimney widens as you ascend, and this section is awkward and uncomfortable for most of the way, but some people get their kicks out of this kind of stuff. Falling out of the chimney could be nasty, and slipping and falling into it could be just as bad. Near the top, head to the right of the chimney for rappel anchors.

Protection

Standard rack. Big Bros for the offwidth.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Great route if you don't mind wide cracks. A must do for the trad climber! Nov 29, 2005
Will Buckman
Devils Tower
 
[Hide Comment] one of the hardest 5.8's I've done. it is totally worth doing twice just to see if it gets easier. Sep 25, 2006
joelhagan Hagan
Milford, CT
 
[Hide Comment] This route was first climbed by Jim Slichter and Don LeFevre in 1975. Worth doing just to do the pull over the roof. Aug 22, 2007
John M
Minneapolis
  5.8+ R
[Hide Comment] Both anchor bolts at the top are moving and badly rusted. There is one new bolt at the top about four feet away. Zero protection shortly after the roof crack unless you have a #5 or#6 cam . I had up to a #4 black diamond and I wish I had a #5. Jul 6, 2018