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Avalon

5.11d, Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.4 from 8 votes
FA: Skinner and Wald, 1984
Wyoming > Devils Tower > W Face
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Climb any route to get to the large ledge at the base of the obvious huge roof (Avalon/Brokedown Palace) near the left-center of the West face. Of the usual options, Jerry's Kids is the most even and well-protected. Avalon takes the left-hand crack up and out the left side of the obvious roof. The section off the ledge is the crux (11d), with a small fingercrack and face edges leading up to a (surprise) no-hands rest below the roof. The climbing eases here and continues above the roof to a semi-hanging belay. The next pitch (11c) continues above on the nice finger crack, with rests, for 2/3 a rope length to a belay below the choss.

Avalon is one of the finest hard-11 routes on the Tower, with outstanding rock, superb moves, and very good protection.

Protection

Numerous RP's, small-mid stoppers, and small TCU's.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

More stems above the roof on the crux pitch. The rock, the position, and the colors are amazing up there.<br>
That's Cooper and Dubois with their rope on Bloodguard, to the right
[Hide Photo] More stems above the roof on the crux pitch. The rock, the position, and the colors are amazing up there. That's Cooper and Dubois with their rope on Bloodguard, to the right
Nate A in the thick (or thin) of it.
[Hide Photo] Nate A in the thick (or thin) of it.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lucas Barth
Yosemite, CA
[Hide Comment] Amazing route! Probably best accessed from Jerry's kids or Up in Smoke, and then moving left before their anchors to the sloping ledge anchor below the big roof. The anchor at this ledge does not look good, but a gear anchor can be built on the right side of the ledge with a variety of gear, medium to large nuts work great.

The crux climbing below the roof comes about 20 feet up and is desperately thin. Protects well though with offset brass nuts and small cams. Cool moves bring you to the roof, which pulls at about 10c, then the climbing eases to 10a or so.

Anchor replaced on 10/22/16. 3rd pitch looks good too at 11c, but I did not do it and supposedly has a pin belay. Oct 24, 2016
[Hide Comment] The anchor at the belay ledge under the roof has been replaced as of 07/22/2017. Jul 23, 2017