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Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches,
Avg: 3.4 from 8
FA: Skinner and Wald, 1984
> Devils Tower
> W Face
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Climb any route to get to the large ledge at the base of the obvious huge roof (Avalon/Brokedown Palace) near the left-center of the West face. Of the usual options, Jerry's Kids is the most even and well-protected. Avalon takes the left-hand crack up and out the left side of the obvious roof. The section off the ledge is the crux (11d), with a small fingercrack and face edges leading up to a (surprise) no-hands rest below the roof. The climbing eases here and continues above the roof to a semi-hanging belay. The next pitch (11c) continues above on the nice finger crack, with rests, for 2/3 a rope length to a belay below the choss.
Avalon is one of the finest hard-11 routes on the Tower, with outstanding rock, superb moves, and very good protection.
Numerous RP's, small-mid stoppers, and small TCU's.