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Pelican's Dike-ination

5.10c, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 118 votes
FA: Brent Kertzman-2002
S Dakota > Needles Of Rush… > Mt Rushmore Nat… > S Seas > Borneo
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Description

This the major dike that is located in the middle of the E face.

Protection

11 bolts lead to a chain anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pelican's Dyke... a really fun climb. Thanks to all that helped identify the route.
[Hide Photo] Pelican's Dyke... a really fun climb. Thanks to all that helped identify the route.
Dimitri nearing the top
[Hide Photo] Dimitri nearing the top
At the top of Pelican's Dyke
[Hide Photo] At the top of Pelican's Dyke
Nathan reaches for powdered confidence...
[Hide Photo] Nathan reaches for powdered confidence...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Busse
Rapid City, SD
[Hide Comment] Can anyone provide me with route info about the bolts directly to climber's left of Pelican's Dyke? They seem to be recently placed and lead to nowhere? ThanksAndrew Apr 24, 2005
Anonymous Coward
[Hide Comment] The climbing on the newer version (straight up the dyke) is actually quite fine. Be advised to take a longer sling or quick draw for the bolt just above the crux bulge. What was the 1st ascent party thinking about by bolting the line slightly left on the bottom section? There are now at least 12 bolts to clip. Shares anchors with Solitaire so beware if someone is climbing that route. Morning sun; afternoon shade. Sep 19, 2005
quickdraw
[Hide Comment] It appears as though there are 3 bolted routes on the face of Pelican's Dyke. I understand from the comments that one is the original climb and one is a newer re-bolt. What is the 3rd one?

Thanks May 29, 2008
Sevve Elliot
Minneapolis, MN
 
[Hide Comment] Does Pelican's Dike share anchors with solitaire? The conversations above were not clear to me what was what. Sep 8, 2008
Alex Baker
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Sevve what's up?

To answer a few questions:

1. Pelican dyke has an anchor at the top of the formation which you can see from the ground. The route is a bit contrived as it is quite easy to step left onto solitaire for the last moves, avoiding what may be the crux.

2.The route left of the two 'pelican dyke boltlines', which follows a smaller dike up and left until it runs out, is quite fun and feels ~ .11b or so. I haven't climbed at Rushmore much so don't take too much stock in my rating. Definitely a notch harder than 'the right pelican dyke boltline', but half as long with a very short crux section

Alex Oct 4, 2009
Caleb Hansen
Rapid City
[Hide Comment] The line farthest left, up the angling dyke is 'spinal tap'. 11b seems right. FUN CLIMB. Oct 29, 2009
Andy Busse
Rapid City, SD
[Hide Comment] Caleb,
are you sure it is spinal tap and not They Came from MN??? where did you get your info and do you know FA??
thanks,
ab Dec 10, 2009
Caleb Hansen
Rapid City
[Hide Comment] Andrew,
Spinal tap was just hear say from a rawhide resident, FAs were out of MN i heard, but maybe spinal tap is just a local given name. More confusion for you sir... see soon. Dec 13, 2009
Marcus Fay
Big Sky, MT
[Hide Comment]
  • *Bolt Pulled** the second to last bolt no longer exists on this route.
May 19, 2018
Ron Yahne
Rapid City, SD
[Hide Comment] 2nd to last bolt was missing a hanger. This was replaced and a new anchor installed on top
7-9-18 Jul 9, 2018