Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Casper College Climbing Club 1959
Page Views: 26,966 total · 131/month
Shared By: Just Another Anonymous User on Sep 27, 2003 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The route is one of the best I have done anywhere. Immaculate rock and beautiful finger and hand jams will leave a smile on any crack climber's face. The finger crack crux comes early, but the real challenge is the sustained nature of the climb. It gets wider and easier as you go up, but there are few rests on this route, so I found the crux to definitely be avoiding getting pumped at the top of the route.

This route is immediately left of Hollywood and Vine, and four cracks to the right of the old stake ladder. The approach is a little tricky. Follow the Durrance approach to the start of the third-class ledges. I recommend racking up and leaving your packs there. Follow the approach to Soler to the outside corner of the third-class ledges (approximately the apex of the turn of the third class ledges). Do not climb all the way to the base of Soler. Instead, climb up exposed third and fourth class blocks to a series of ledges with trees. Follow these around right until you encounter a short fourth class ramp to a sheltered alcove at the base of the route. If the moves are Class 5, you're off route -- but many people will still want a belay for this fourth class approach.

Protection

Walt Bailey is long and sustained, so bring plenty of protection from small nuts and TCUs to about a #3 Camalot, with doubles (or even triples) of everything up to a #2 Camalot. The crack has many constrictions, so nuts and hexes work well. A 60 meter rope is highly recommended, as we didn't have much rope left at the top of the pitch. You might be able to stretch a 50 meter rope to the top, though this might require some simul-climbing. There's a good 2 bolt anchor at the top, but it is not set up for a rappel station.

Photos