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Routes in Peanut

Just Lay Back and Enjoy It T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
PB & J S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Eric Sutton, Mimi Hillenbrand
Page Views: 41 total · 0/month
Shared By: Eric Sutton on Jul 21, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This route goes directly up the front face of the second pinnacle right of the peanut. It climbs the deep and wide flake that just misses reaching the ground, continues up past a chicken head and veers slightly left of a small overlap which can be seen from the ground. Steep slabby face climbing above the overlap is protected by creative clusters of rp's left, while the climbing angles slightly right through the obvious line past more rp's turning into a gradually better crack. A bolt protects the bulgey face above the now almost horizontal crack. Crack protection on the top back side forms the anchor and the rappel is off the slung natural rock bridge on the top. Rappel off the overhung side into the corridor below. The route has three cruxes. The laybacking early on, the slabby face past the rp's, and the bulgey face at the top. This route doesn't see much travel but is very enjoyable to those solid on the grade and better and good at placing protection and route finding. Mimi did one hell of a job with me on this.

Protection

standard rack of cams and nuts from finger to hand size with lots of extra small rp's, some long slings to reduce rope drag in places and slings and extra 'biners for equalizing clusters of small rp's. One bolt near the top. An extra long tied sling to replace the rappel sling if neccessary.

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