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Routes in Java

Climb-Us Interuptus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Led A-Stray T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Shady Proposition S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Eric Sutton,Chris Jockobson
Page Views: 52 total, 0/month
Shared By: Eric Sutton on Aug 12, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

"Led A-Stray" follows the crack system between "Shady Proposition" and "Climbus Interuptus". Once the crack ends there are still some small rp placements and then it moves slightly left and straight up the face past one bolt to the top and left to the anchors above "Shady Proposition". The climbing through the crux section is tweaky on the elbows and or shoulders but has decent gear. The climbing above the tiny rp's is a bit too hard for the available protection, so I have yet to recomend this route to anybody as a lead. It's a good top-rope though and would get better with more travel.

Protection

Standard rack up to hand-size protection with extra rp and small camming gear.The hardest climbing is adequately protected with very serious fall potential above top of seam.One bolt high above end of seam.

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harrison t
Black Hills, SD
  5.11 PG13
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
  5.11 PG13
Bold route, nice work Eric on the FA.
Modern gear (offset cams) and rps protect the upper seam adequately, but like the description says... getting to the bolt out from your last rp is not easy. Fun climbing and worth doing if you're up for the heady challenge. Nov 9, 2015
Well said, Eric. Your comment is probably the most eloquently stated thought on this site. Thanks for the words.

There's something to be learned from Eric's comments, in my opinion. Newbie to veteran, 5.8 climber to 5.15 climber...we all need access to the rock to enjoy rock climbing, and until we put our unjustly inflated egos aside and work in unison towards a common goal (without demanding identities, without issuing ulitmatums) we jeopardize any chances of continuing to climb in these amazing playgrounds. Sep 15, 2003
Eric Sutton  
 
I intend to return to "Led A-Stray" and add at least one bolt to it. When I did the route I stopped to drill one and the wind began blowing like mad out of nowhere. Since I was on the lead I opted to continue on to a better stance before being blown off. I would like to re-establish the route in a more leadable form though still using what natural protection the route has to offer. I intend to get this done soon. On another note, I'm pretty disappointed in the threats and squabbling going on about who bolts what and how, and who did or didn't do what,when. I think it all boils down somehow to respect and trying to find or build common ground and if that is too hard maybe start with respect or appreciation of the rock we all love to climb on. I for one have found more peace and pleasure through climbing than almost anything else. I have been climbing for 20 years and intend to do it for as long as I can continue to drag my overused high-mileage body to the cliffs. I have two wonderful daughters. One who is learning to love climbing herself, and another who probably will because she loves anything to do with her big sister. I want them to have the resourses I have enjoyed and don't want them lost due to shortsighted behavior. I want them to be able to enjoy the adventure of what is now old style climbing but definitely don't want them to do a lot of the things I was lucky or sometimes Immortal-feeling enough to pull off. Maybe if everyone was a dad or didn't lose sight of being one, all this stuff would remain hot air and not turn into action. As my wife and close friends know, I have a fair bit of hot air myself but I have acted on any of my dumb comments. Think of my daughters if you don't have any of your own. And that is all I have to say about that. I have little enough time to climb these days as it is without getting too caught up in this.



Sep 15, 2003