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Creeping Senility

5.6 R, Sport, 175 ft (53 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 49 votes
FA: Ron and Shari Baker (1989)
S Dakota > Custer SP > Sylvan Lake > Outlets > Old People's Dome

Description

This is one of three great routes on Old People's Dome, which is located just northwest of the back side of Outer Outlet. Basically, go down the same trail that leads to the back side of Outer Outlet and the Conn Diagonal climb but then turn to the left and continue downhill on a well worn trail that leads to a tall dome shaped spire. The climb is just left of the two small white birch trees. The first bolt is about 20 feet off of the deck, but it can be easily approached from the adjacent ugly gully. I highly recommend the direct ascent. The route is also fairly run outt near the top, but there is a horizontal crack that takes a #1 tricam or small cam. After the last bolt, follow the unprotected arete or slide around to the right and go up last protected part of Aging Gracefully to the intermediate bolt/chain anchor. If you choose the second option, you need to place a double sling on the last bolt of Creeping Senility and a single sling on the last button bolt for Aging Gracefully to avoid monster rope drag. The approximately 175 foot high summit can be reached with a 60 M rope with about 3 M to spare, otherwise with a shorter rope you can make it a two pitch climb. It's an easy unprotected scramble from the intermediate belay up to a large ledge and on up to the true summit, where a new bolt anchor has been provided. Two ropes are needed for rap from either anchor.

Protection

Seven or eight bolts with runout in the middle and near the top of the climb. A #1 tricam and/or small flexible cam can be used if desired in a horizontal crack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Will Becker heading up Creeping Senility.
[Hide Photo] Will Becker heading up Creeping Senility.
Paul Huebner leading Creeping Senility
[Hide Photo] Paul Huebner leading Creeping Senility
Anne Meyer on her first lead of the climb.
[Hide Photo] Anne Meyer on her first lead of the climb.
Fun Fun Fun almost there<br>
By: Christian Baird <br>
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[Hide Photo] Fun Fun Fun almost there By: Christian Baird

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brad Schildt
Boulder, CO
  5.6 R
[Hide Comment] Glad to hear that this is now rated 5.6. In 1992 when I first did this route the "Poorperson's Guidebook" rated this as 5.3! Mar 29, 2008
GregMartin
Rapid City SD
[Hide Comment] A summit register was placed last fall and new chains have replaced the black webbing. Oct 14, 2008
[Hide Comment] Regarding Creeping Senility. Will a single 60 meter rope get you down
(safely of course) from the intermediate anchor? May 17, 2010
Brian K
Rapid City, SD
  5.6 R
[Hide Comment] No, you'll need two ropes. May 17, 2010
[Hide Comment] Wow...that was quick. I'm putting together a short tic list for a weekend in late June. Thanx Brian! May 17, 2010
Ron Yahne
Rapid City, SD
[Hide Comment] FA 1989
Ron Yahne and Shari Baker Jul 28, 2011
Brandon Emery
Custer, SD
 
[Hide Comment] Definitely didn't read the description of this route thoroughly, you definitely need two ropes to rappel, even from the bottom set of chains. With a 70m rope you can do it in two rappels, but still have to downclimb the last 8feet or so, which is very easy thanks to a large flake that you can grab onto as the rope whizzes through your belay device. Fun climb nonetheless! Jul 14, 2015
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Belayed Anne Meyer on her first lead of Creeping Senility on her 60 M rope on 7/11/15. I clipped my 70 M rope in behind on my harness and we still needed both ropes to rappel to the ground from the actual summit. I believe we also still would've needed both ropes to get safely down from the intermediate anchor. Jul 16, 2015
Ryan Emery
Black Hills, SD
 
[Hide Comment] I would suggest being careful where your knot is located on the two rope rap. Our ropes got stuck. Maybe you are suppose to do a two rope rap from the intermediate anchors? Let me know if you have beta! Great route! Aging gracefully is also nice! Mar 15, 2016
Rika J
Colorado
[Hide Comment] If you link both pitches, make sure to extend all your pro, otherwise you'll really suffer from rope drag at the top. I've never had a problem with ropes getting stuck when doing the two rope rappel from the summit. Dec 13, 2016
RustyLane
Minneapolis
[Hide Comment] Locals named this Sunkist and is referenced as this in many hand made local guide books "at least back in the 90's when I guided out there" Mar 15, 2018
Steve Wilger
Custer, SD
[Hide Comment] Lead bolts were replaced by BHCC in July of 2019. Oct 29, 2019
Carl Sampurna
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] bring a few 120cm slings for clipping bolts on Aging Gracefully

the arete top-out isn't unprotected; there's a bolt below the summit anchor Jul 4, 2020