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Inner Course

5.4, Sport, 140 ft (42 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 70 votes
FA: Cindy Tolle
S Dakota > Custer SP > Sylvan Lake > Outlets > Youbet Jorasses

Description

After passing through the damp tunnel take a left and walk up the trail until you encounter a private road and residence. Take the trail just before the residence that heads off to your right. As the trail descends take the 3rd turnoff to your right. This is a very popular climb and you can usually see others climbing Inner Course or the 5.8 climb called Foreplay, which goes up a water wash immediately to your right once you enter the narrow cleft between the Youbet Jorasses and Outer Outlet formations. Just a bit further up from Foreplay a very large boulder blocks the trail. This is the start of the climb and the belayer should stay below it but the leader must scramble to the top of the boulder where he or she will encounter the first bolt on this impressive looking line. There are 7 bolts to clip and the route proceeds to the left as you proceed higher. A sling can be placed on the 5th bolt to reduce rope drag and just above the last bolt there is a nice horn, which you should sling with a double runner. Then you need to traverse up and to the right where you'll see the bolt anchors. You need 2 ropes for the rappel.

Protection

There are 7 bolts. You should have a couple of runners (a single and a double), one to sling the 5th bolt to avoid rope drag and the double to sling a horn above the bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Very top!
[Hide Photo] Very top!
Picture exhibiting the knobby nature of this climb.
[Hide Photo] Picture exhibiting the knobby nature of this climb.
Early March... brrrr
[Hide Photo] Early March... brrrr
View of the valley behind Sylvan Lake from the belay atop Inner Course.
[Hide Photo] View of the valley behind Sylvan Lake from the belay atop Inner Course.
Byron leading up the route.
[Hide Photo] Byron leading up the route.
Deceiving from the beginning because it does not look like a two rope rappel. Definitely trail a second rope. Glad we brought two.
[Hide Photo] Deceiving from the beginning because it does not look like a two rope rappel. Definitely trail a second rope. Glad we brought two.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

wayniak
  5.5
[Hide Comment] Fun. Create intro to the area's rock. Bonus: The summit view helpful beta for other climbs/features in the area Jul 24, 2005
[Hide Comment] This is a killer climb. It's one of my favorites behind the dam of Sylvian. I would highly suggest to try this one out if you are back in the area. Feb 27, 2007
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
  5.4
[Hide Comment] Just led this route again this past July. I found that by skipping the last bolt (#7), you eliminate the rope drag getting over to the existing anchor and when belaying up your second. The original anchor was in direct line with the bolts, but the newer anchor is quite a ways to the right of the climb. Aug 5, 2009
joelhagan Hagan
Milford, CT
 
[Hide Comment] If you use a shoulder length runner instead of a quickdraw it cuts out the rope drag as well. Aug 6, 2009
Jim Schedin
MN
 
[Hide Comment] This is a great one pitch warm up route and along with Better Than Pool & Pie (on the back side of the dam) is a great way to acclimate yourself to the type of rock found in this area. Topping out on it gives you a great view of the area, with views of Lander/Katie's, Riddle, Hrum Hroom, the back side of Rhino, etc. I agree with a previous reviewer....use a long runner up near the top bolt to prevent rope drag. Plenty of room up top for 3-4 people. Jul 28, 2010
Ramo D
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] Can you get off this route with a 70m rope or do you need doubles? Jun 11, 2014
BBQ
 
[Hide Comment] Use doubles. Jun 12, 2014
Kirtis Courkamp
Golden
 
[Hide Comment] got off with a 70 Just Barely Jul 2, 2014
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.4
[Hide Comment] to second what kirtis said you CAN barely get off with a single 70m. watch your ends! Jul 4, 2014
[Hide Comment] Can you sport climb this route? Just wondering since it says trad, but has 7 bolts. Mar 21, 2016
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.4
[Hide Comment] No gear needed for this route. One long sling helps up top but the route is entirely on bolts. Perfect intro for the area. Mar 21, 2016
[Hide Comment] Fun easy sport route. A little bit run out between the last bolt and the anchor chains, but that part is on lower-angle easier terrain. You can rappel on a single 70-meter rope, which will just barely reach the ground. Jun 27, 2022