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Inner Course
5.4,
Sport, 140 ft (42 m),
Avg: 3.2 from 70
votes
FA: Cindy Tolle
S Dakota
> Custer SP
> Sylvan Lake
> Outlets
> Youbet Jorasses
Description
After passing through the damp tunnel take a left and walk up the trail until you encounter a private road and residence. Take the trail just before the residence that heads off to your right. As the trail descends take the 3rd turnoff to your right. This is a very popular climb and you can usually see others climbing Inner Course or the 5.8 climb called Foreplay, which goes up a water wash immediately to your right once you enter the narrow cleft between the Youbet Jorasses and Outer Outlet formations. Just a bit further up from Foreplay a very large boulder blocks the trail. This is the start of the climb and the belayer should stay below it but the leader must scramble to the top of the boulder where he or she will encounter the first bolt on this impressive looking line. There are 7 bolts to clip and the route proceeds to the left as you proceed higher. A sling can be placed on the 5th bolt to reduce rope drag and just above the last bolt there is a nice horn, which you should sling with a double runner. Then you need to traverse up and to the right where you'll see the bolt anchors. You need 2 ropes for the rappel.
Protection
There are 7 bolts. You should have a couple of runners (a single and a double), one to sling the 5th bolt to avoid rope drag and the double to sling a horn above the bolts.
[Hide Photo] Picture exhibiting the knobby nature of this climb.
[Hide Photo] Byron leading up the route.
[Hide Photo] Deceiving from the beginning because it does not look like a two rope rappel. Definitely trail a second rope. Glad we brought two.
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