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Routes in Youbet Jorasses

Birth Control S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Foreplay S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Inner Course T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nutcracker Suite T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Cindy Tolle
Page Views: 3,662 total, 21/month
Shared By: Paul Huebner on Jul 9, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


61 Opinions

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Description

After passing through the damp tunnel take a left and walk up the trail until you encounter a private road and residence. Take the trail just before the residence that heads off to your right. As the trail descends take the 3rd turnoff to your right. This is a very popular climb and you can usually see others climbing Inner Course or the 5.8 climb called Foreplay, which goes up a water wash immediately to your right once you enter the narrow cleft between the Youbet Jorasses and Outer Outlet formations. Just a bit further up from Foreplay a very large boulder blocks the trail. This is the start of the climb and the belayer should stay below it but the leader must scramble to the top of the boulder where he or she will encounter the first bolt on this impressive looking line. There are 7 bolts to clip and the route proceeds to the left as you proceed higher. A sling can be placed on the 5th bolt to reduce rope drag and just above the last bolt there is a nice horn, which you should sling with a double runner. Then you need to traverse up and to the right where you'll see the bolt anchors. You need 2 ropes for the rappel.

Protection

There are 7 bolts. You should have a couple of runners (a single and a double), one to sling the 5th bolt to avoid rope drag and the double to sling a horn above the bolts.
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.4
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
  5.4
No gear needed for this route. One long sling helps up top but the route is entirely on bolts. Perfect intro for the area. Mar 21, 2016
BigSpat  
Can you sport climb this route? Just wondering since it says trad, but has 7 bolts. Mar 21, 2016
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.4
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
  5.4
to second what kirtis said you CAN barely get off with a single 70m. watch your ends! Jul 4, 2014
Kirtis Courkamp
Golden
 
Kirtis Courkamp   Golden
 
got off with a 70 Just Barely Jul 2, 2014
BBQ
  5.4
BBQ  
  5.4
Use doubles. Jun 12, 2014
Ramo D  
Can you get off this route with a 70m rope or do you need doubles? Jun 11, 2014
Jim Schedin
MN
 
Jim Schedin   MN
 
This is a great one pitch warm up route and along with Better Than Pool & Pie (on the back side of the dam) is a great way to acclimate yourself to the type of rock found in this area. Topping out on it gives you a great view of the area, with views of Lander/Katie's, Riddle, Hrum Hroom, the back side of Rhino, etc. I agree with a previous reviewer....use a long runner up near the top bolt to prevent rope drag. Plenty of room up top for 3-4 people. Jul 28, 2010
joelhagan Hagan
Rapid City, SD
 
joelhagan Hagan   Rapid City, SD
 
If you use a shoulder length runner instead of a quickdraw it cuts out the rope drag as well. Aug 6, 2009
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
 
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
 
Just led this route again this past July. I found that by skipping the last bolt (#7), you eliminate the rope drag getting over to the existing anchor and when belaying up your second. The original anchor was in direct line with the bolts, but the newer anchor is quite a ways to the right of the climb. Aug 5, 2009
This is a killer climb. It's one of my favorites behind the dam of Sylvian. I would highly suggest to try this one out if you are back in the area. Feb 27, 2007
wayniak
  5.5
wayniak  
  5.5
Fun. Create intro to the area's rock. Bonus: The summit view helpful beta for other climbs/features in the area Jul 24, 2005