Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Brent Kertzman and Mike Miller Oct. 1991
Page Views: 210 total · 1/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

This route is about 60 yards left (east) of the giant "free standing flake". There is a very prominent buttress near the center of "Weather Watchers Wall". A beautiful off-width and left facing corner pierce the center of the above mentioned buttress. The crack feature is actually the route known as "Uff Da-Hedral" (beautiful crack and corner. "Rockin Raspberries" is on the right arete 15 feet right of "Uff Da-Hedral.

Locate a medium sized boulder below the right arete on the above mentioned buttress and belay there. There will be a wide crack starting in the small chasm behind the belay boulder. Some climbers enjoy this wide dirty crack. Most others opt for the unprotected 5.8 one move wonder on the slab to the right of the grungy wideness. The move is low-down and a larger cam can be placed as one moves up and leftward across the wide crack. The first gear I generally place are a couple of wired nuts in opposition along a horizontal fracture just left of the wide crack about 30' up. The gear in this section is your call.

Having dealt with the starting difficulties the climbing becomes more direct as you follow a thinner crack to the arete. Upon gaining the arete a bolt and pin plus two more bolts protect the arete above. There are some solid gear placements above the last bolt that are a bit difficult too place but will ease the mind once clipped into. Rap or belay from the two bolt anchor at the top of the arete. It is possible to climb onto any of several options for a second pitch to the summit.

Protection

One set of Stoppers, One set of Cams .5" to 3", optional 5" Cam, Quickdraws, Over the shoulder sling

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