Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Seul Avec Dieux Boulder

4on6 V5 6C
Irreducibly Complex V6 7A
Prow, The V10 7C+
Seul Avec Dieu V7 7A+
Tall Mans Problem V1 5
Type: Boulder
FA: David Asscherick
Page Views: 66 total, 0/month
Shared By: Greg Parker on Jun 17, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

This surprisingly hard problem is just to the left of The Prow. It starts in an obvious groove and heads straight up. The top hosts some tiny little crimpers that seem to want to spit you off. It's a great problem to sandbag your friends on. David did this problem quickly and told me it was V4. The next day he showed it to me and we both proceeded to fall on it time and time again. After we both managed to get up the thing, the grade was raised to V6.

Protection

pad, spotter
I recently sent this on my birthday,Coin gave me a gift of good new beta! I used a high right knee bar, squeezed my left hand out of the sidepull/gastone/knee bar. crimped left above, and bumped my knee bar up slightly and reached my right hand to a good crystal at lip. It went quick with this beta. Hope someone else tries. Thanks Coin! Feb 4, 2013
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Thanks Greg. Will be out there again in May or June. Need to look at this one again now. Feb 1, 2013
I also have a hard time on this one. One thing that sticks in my mind is pressing super hard up on a high right foot. It made my right toe feel like it was going to explode. Some people make it look easy though. Jan 24, 2013
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Please sir. Find them. Jan 22, 2013
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
 
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
 
Ha. I warned everyone in my description! This thing is ridiculous! I have a sequence of shots somewhere showing a repeat ascent (the photo above is part of the sequence). If I can find them, I'll post them. I don't remember the exact sequence, other than desparately tic-tacking my way up on tiny crystals.
Jan 22, 2013
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
This problem seemed close to impossible. I would love to go out there with someone who has some beta. Me and a much stronger guy than me tried this problem for a very long time and came up completely emptyhanded. Jan 19, 2013
My own little Amish Power! V5, Greg? Ha! Dec 31, 2003
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
 
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
 
Apparently, the grade now has been raised to V7 or even V8! That makes a bit more sense if you read my description. V4, Dave? Nov 18, 2003