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Routes in King Pin

Conn Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Laptad-Prince route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Organized Crime S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Quartz Jester T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Herb and Jan Conn, 1952
Page Views: 1,192 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tyson S Arp on May 24, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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This route begins up the chimney/ramp to the left of Quartz Jester and between King Pin and Queen Pin. Climb to the highpoint between King and Queen. From there make a few difficult moves up the face of King Pin to gain another chimney. Apparently this originally went at 5.7, but over the course of time an important hold broke off. There is now a move or two of 5.8/5.9 to gain the upper chimney. Once in the upper chimney it is a runout cruise to the summit where one will find a bolted anchor.


Small cams are useful protecting the crux moves.