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Routes in North Face & Northwest Corner

Call Evita 911 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doldrums T C2+
Fourplay T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Friend of the Devil 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3-
Klondike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Leaping Lizards T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
McCarthy's North Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystic and the Mulchers T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Psychic Turbulance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleight of Hand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Spiney Norman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whine and Bruises T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Hong, Budding, Smedley, Feiges
Page Views: 815 total · 5/month
Shared By: Paul Heyliger on May 27, 2003
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Fourplay is the very nice finger flake and crack two lines to the right of (and around the corner from) Psychic Turbulence. It involves straight-in fingers with no real crux move, with excellent protection all the way, up to a comfortable ledge at the end of your rope. I cannot imagine doing the upper pitches (a death-block was knocked loose on the first ascent), and most will rappel after the one pitch. The lower belay is easily reached by traversing left from the NW shoulder routes.

Protection

Many medium RP's and small-medium wired stoppers with a few cams up to No. 1 Friends.

Photos

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Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
 
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
 
The first pitch is easy, but more like 150-160 feet. The second pitch is about the same length. Great climbing and had a little lichen on it, but it didn't interfere. Sep 5, 2016
slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
long pitch of awesome climbing. very heavy on the tips to fingers gear. Aug 31, 2011
One of the best finger cracks I've done at the Tower, needs some traffic to stay clean. After we aided it yesterday, all the locks were cleaned out and it was lapped many times, lookin good now! Excellant balancy locking sequences with wild footwork and a short cruxy thin fingertip section. We climbed it in two pitches, a short easy approach pitch to a comfy gear anchor (#2&3 camalot), then the crack (many small-med.stoppers, extra finger cams). Go get some!!! May 29, 2009