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Trojan Determination

5.8 R, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 9 votes
FA: Bob Archbold, Bill Strachan, Hal Shaw
S Dakota > Custer SP > Tenpins/Switchb… > Reunion Rock

Description

Climb up the obvious dish / alcove. Before you reach the top of the alcove, move up and left onto the face. Keep climbing until you reach the first bolt (sbout 35 feet). Pay attention as I climbed was so focused that I climbed past the first bolt and had to down climb a little to clip it. Move up and right to a pin and then up to a bolt and another pin. You may be able to get a TCU or stopper in higher on the route. The climbing is great on the route and relatively safe after you clip the first bolt. It's definatly a classic Needles route.

Protection

4 fixed pieces.Possibly a tcu or stopper after the first bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anonymous Coward
[Hide Comment] Not a good route. In addition to the sick runnout to the first bolt the route zig zags back and forth not so much in a contrived way but, more likely because whoever put it up couldn't go straight up and needed to get to the bigger holds. 'Trojan Condom-nation' to the right is a much cleaner, more asthetically pleasing route. Aug 14, 2003
Ryan Franz
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] I actually think this climb embodies Needles climbing. Minimal protection, following the most climbable line...you can climb anything in the Needles if you have the guts! Apr 27, 2007
matt scherer
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Apparently Bob was on lead for quite a long time while establishing this route. But it goes to show that sometimes 5.8 just takes some determination. Aug 16, 2023