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Routes in Reunion Rock

Loss of Sensation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trojan Determination S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
impuissant (impotent) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob Archbold, Bill Strachan, Hal Shaw
Page Views: 729 total · 4/month
Shared By: Kevin Fons on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up the obvious dish / alcove. Before you reach the top of the alcove, move up and left onto the face. Keep climbing until you reach the first bolt (sbout 35 feet). Pay attention as I climbed was so focused that I climbed past the first bolt and had to down climb a little to clip it. Move up and right to a pin and then up to a bolt and another pin. You may be able to get a TCU or stopper in higher on the route. The climbing is great on the route and relatively safe after you clip the first bolt. It's definatly a classic Needles route.

Protection

4 fixed pieces.Possibly a tcu or stopper after the first bolt.

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Not a good route. In addition to the sick runnout to the first bolt the route zig zags back and forth not so much in a contrived way but, more likely because whoever put it up couldn't go straight up and needed to get to the bigger holds. 'Trojan Condom-nation' to the right is a much cleaner, more asthetically pleasing route. Aug 14, 2003
Ryan Franz
Boulder, CO
Ryan Franz   Boulder, CO
I actually think this climb embodies Needles climbing. Minimal protection, following the most climbable line...you can climb anything in the Needles if you have the guts! Apr 27, 2007

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