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Routes in The Wall Of Oz

Cowardly Lion, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
I'm Melting S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
If I Only Had A Brain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Equipped by Nate Renner; First Ascent by Greg Parker
Page Views: 45 total, 0/month
Shared By: Greg Parker on Dec 12, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This is the far right route and climbs through the steepest section of the wall. Please stick-clip the first bolt to avoid any possible diggers off the ledge. This route begins with easy climbing that quickly gives way to a thin pocket crux complete with a half-pad crimp mono! A long reach to and off of a decent mono marks the crux, but the steep black bulge above should not be taken lightly. This route has great sequential climbing on great stone. The top can get a little dirty from run-off early in the season.

Protection

5 bolts, funky anchor consisting of two locking carabiners.

Photos

Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
 
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
 
You just kind of have to hang the half-pad mono and reach. You don't really have to yard on it. Plus, think of the bragging rights! How many half-pad monos do you ever use? Dec 25, 2002
Half-pad crimp mono? Sounds like fun please sign me up this one. Dec 23, 2002