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Trad, 320 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 3.9 from 43
FA: B. Yoho, C. Black, C. Holtkamp, J. Baird, '78
> Devils Tower
> W Face
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
One of the finest routes we did at Devil's Tower, and it even remains open when the rest of the West Face is closed for Falcons!
Approach this route via the West Face trail and skirt the left-hand edge of the trial towards to great routes, One Way Sunset and Carol's Crack. Both of these 3* routes are near the north-most edge of the West Face.
I could tell you to look for a primarily right facing corner system that starts low angle and gets progressively steeper as you climb upward. That describes 1/2 of the climbs at the tower though. The other half are left-facing. In any case, this is the 2nd right facing system to the right of where the major broken recess is on the NW corner.
Until a picture is directly associated with this description, owning the guidebook may be necessary to find the climb.
P1: (100' 5.10a) Climb a thin hand to finger crack to fixed anchors in the corner. A set of cams protects this, with the crux being near the top. A good pitch, but not a great pitch.
P2: (160' 5.11a) Sustained. Climb a thin crack for a long way- my partner placed 20 pieces of gear on this lead. 1/2 way up there is a step out to a no-hands rest on the Arete to the left. Near the top the crack gets wider and easier. Belay at fixed anchors. This is the classic pitch!
P3: You can continue up through 5.7 corner territory (80') and then on chimneys and cracks to the top (150'). We did not do so, as we had seen a falcon near the top and did not wish to agitate it. In either case, the rock is not as good now, and the fun part is over.
A good sized rack of stoppers and TCUs. A few each of hand sized pieces are good too, but as these are for where the climbing is easier, one set of Camalots or other cams 1.5-3" should do the trick. Take a good number of draws (12+). P2 is long & sustained and it eats the rack. 2 ropes to rap off the 160+ foot second pitch. 60M are OK, and 50M might be- don't know for sure, but it looked OK for 50M.