Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 409 total · 2/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Nov 11, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This problem is on a short wall left of Double Dyno and the Milligram prow. Start sitting down and worm into the big horizontal. Get a good no hands rest and climb the overhung wall up and right on good holds.

Does anybody know the name of this, or have a concensus rating for this? Peter and I may have done the FA back in 95 or so, but I don't know for sure.

Protection

Good landing

Photos

Last summer, Luke and I tried this for the first time (Luke had done it before). He and I both got seriuosly spanked, but we went straight up and to the lip, which is the crux (holding onto the lip and removing your feet from deep within the belly of the beatch). I would call this V5 or somewhere close, but that's being a sandbagger. It seemed harder to me. I am just a wimp, though. I'm sure it's not V5--it can't be V5. Who knows? Anyone else got any ideas? May 7, 2003
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  V1
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  V1
Whoa. Sounds like something broke. I remember working into the offwidth, getting a great no hands rest(pre-beergut days), and then grabbing good holds a bit right of where it was most logical to get into the offwidth. Once I latched those holds, I would let my legs slide out to the lip of the crack and fire for the top. I didn't think it was all that hard - I found it way easier than I did Double Dyno or Muscle Corner, and maybe about the same and just wierder than Southern Discomfort. Definitely a strange problem though. Do you know if anyone did it before I did, and if so what is the name? I'll have to go back and look at it next time I am in South Dakota. May 8, 2003
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
I think something broke. Going straight up is hard. Nowhere near V1. May 8, 2003
That's encouraging. It felt much harder than Southern Discomfort or Double Dyno. I'm glad a didn't get spanked on a V1. That would be disappointing. It felt as hard as Muscle Corner, though.

As per the FA, Luke said that he did that problem a few years ago, back in the day, with Christian and some others. Greg, you might know who did this problem, right? Dave or you? May 8, 2003