PRINT: Rock Climb Dusk In Dogtown, Devils Tower

Dusk In Dogtown

5.10c, Trad, 150 ft (45 m),

Avg: 3.7 from 31 votes
FA: Mark Smedley and Jim Black 1980
Wyoming > Devils Tower > S & E Faces

Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE

The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.

Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.

Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…

Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…

Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.

Description

Location: Take the south face approach to the base of Soler, continue traversing discontinuous ledges, past some rappel anchors, until below the window (series of overhanging roofs). The climb is located just left of the overhangs in a right facing dihedral. The crack has a V-shaped pod approximately 30' off the starting ledge. Note: The traverse from Soler to the window is quite exposed.This route features many fingerlocks and edging on low angle rock, surprisingly thin for 5.10 at the tower. The footholds on the face are fantastic, and even when the crack thins and protection looks nonexistent, things materialize. Rappel after the first pitch, or continue on the steep 5.12 RP fest above.

Protection

This could easily be lead with a double rack of stoppers. Most will want a few cams up to #1 or #2 Camalot.

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Local Tower Good Samaritan on Dusk in Dogtown.

great/only warm-up for adjacent routes

Great route, one of the more obscure approaches however.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steven Lucarelli
Grand Junction, CO

5.10c

This is a great route with varied climbing, good rests, and a nice crux finish. Definitely deserves at least 3 stars. May 10, 2006

Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ

If you are very mindful of the ends of the rope and belay from the highest possible stance, you can do the route and lower/rappel off with a single 70m rope. Apr 30, 2008

Lucas Barth
Moab, UT

This is a fun and beautiful overlooked classic. Every move is memorable with Toweresque jamming and stemming. The anchor was replaced in 2015. Only a single #2 required, doubles below that. Go past El Cracko Diablo (right of the route) through some exposed scrambling sections, following the line of least resistance through some bush. Just after 5 minutes you'll reach a beautiful alcove beneath the Window, the most striking feature on the Tower. As a bonus, you can top rope 90% of Animal Cracker Land (12b) to the right. Oct 1, 2017

Space Dust

5.10c

This is a great route. Varied climbing and sustained climbing. An overlooked classic. Oct 7, 2023