Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bob Archbold-2000
Page Views: 834 total · 4/month
Shared By: Bob Archbold on Sep 17, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details


This is the route in between "Misty Morning" and "Tranquil Evening" Climb up the steep face going over a small bulge with small holds


Just clip the bolts


The anchors on this route are loose. Feb 25, 2005
S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
The first bolt on this route is about ready to pull. I made my way up to it, with the intention of leading it, and decided against it due to the bolts appearnce. It actually moves up and down significantly. Dont fall on that one! Sep 9, 2008
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
This route is only six years old!!!

A classic example of why hardware store bolts should not be used for rock climbing.

I tried to explain to Bob A. the problems with using hardware from unreliable sources. He told me quality hardware was just too expensive from his perspective and that quantity surpasses quality where he was concerned.

Just what is the cost of human life worth???

This route is one of many suffering from Bob's bolting on a budget blitz of new routes and replacement in the early part of the new millenium.

This is edging into criminal from my perspective based on the fact that Bob was the first BHCC-Permit holder for Mt. Rushmore N.M. Likewise due to the fact he is an EMT/Firefighter whom should understand the importance of quality bolts for the support of human weight/life.

Hats off to the BHCC for the evolution of replacement standards for hardware beginning in 2003. I believe in the future, standards need to be enforced and permits issued for all new routing in the entire Harney Range to prevent this type of junk from sprouting from the rock and too prevent botch jobs for someone else to repair.

I have talked with several other first ascentionists to encourage them to use higher quality hardware (which they have done). Sep 9, 2008
chris tregge
chris tregge   Beersconsin  

Brent, who is funding the re-bolting? Is there a website or way to contribute? Sep 9, 2008
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
The Black Hills Climbers Coalition is funding, permitted and performing bolt replacement in the Black Hills. More info can be found atbhclimbers.com. Donations are welcome. Sep 10, 2008
Snake Ferguson
Rapid City, SD
Snake Ferguson   Rapid City, SD
Just don't fall...:P Creepy stuff though 8-o Aug 25, 2010
Lots of FUN moves! Sep 22, 2010
Jimmy D
Rapid City
Jimmy D   Rapid City
The first bolt is totally threaded. Stick clipping the second bolt wouldn't be a bad idea.. Not a bad route, it just needs some love!! Nov 3, 2015