Type: Sport, 240 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Engle and Vern Phinney
Page Views: 2,385 total · 12/month
Shared By: Bob Archbold on Aug 30, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

27 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details


This route is on the opposite corner of Weird Water, towards Mount Rushmore on the same rock.

Start the climb going diagonalling left along a schist band into a groove, pull through the top of the groove and go till the wall steepens. Set a belay here. Keep following the bolts up the very exposed prow till you get to the anchors which are by the anchors for Weird Water. This is a fabulous route


Excellent bolt placements


Dan Dewell  
There are 11 bolts for the first pitch and 7 bolts for the second pitch, and you need some stoppers up on the second pitch. You need about 200 feet of rope to do this climb in one push (that's why it's two pitches), so it's a two rope rappel to get down with a 60m rope. You can also clip into the "Weird Water" anchors with a longer set of runners to make this a more comfortable belay on top. Jun 25, 2003
Spectacular route! On rappel was looking at the schist band at the bottom and it looked like a fun direct start could be done going straight up through the schist overhangs - another bolt or two would be needed. Didn't have time to toprope it to check out the moves. Jun 7, 2004
Ryan Minton  
Great route- the bear hug section on the first pitch is spectacular! The only gear that I used besides the bolts was a blue Alien down low on the first pitch (after the overhang) and a yellow Alien in the stemming/bear hug section. We didn't see the need for any extra gear on the second pitch, but there are placement options should one deem them necessary. Go do it! Jun 8, 2004
A truly fantastic route! A very sustained first pitch ("Oh calves don't fail me now!") and great exposure and a technical crux on the second make this a "must do" for solid 5.10 or harder climbers. I didn't feel that placing gear would make the route much safer, but could see placing the Aliens as suggested in the above comments. This is a nice line to be proud of--kudos to the first ascentionists! Jun 23, 2004