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Routes in Critical View

Critical View S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dykes Next Door S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bob Bowman, Vernon Phinney-1985 Ground Up
Page Views: 1,296 total, 7/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Aug 30, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This is a frustrating 5.8, and that is because the first 8 feet are balancy 5.10! An excellent route to sandbag beginner climbers on, which I found out on my first day of climbing as I never really got off the ground.

This is the bolt line closest to Hornets Nest on Critical View. Stand up on a large blocky foothold, which is much harder and more delicate than it looks. A few more thin moves get you to the second bolt, and then cruiser 5.8 to the top.

Protection

Draws
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.8
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.8
The new "base" makes it just a move of 5.8 to get off the ground (pulling on the sloper), followed by easier climbing above. Jul 27, 2014
Mike Madsen
Rapid City
 
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
 
This route is now 5.7-5.8 at the hardest. good route! Jun 20, 2014
Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
  5.9- PG13
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
  5.9- PG13
Love the flowing moves on this-- steep rich crystal seam. Only lacks height... Blowing the third clip with the raised base though might not end well. Somewhat twisted scary stance there for someone under 6 ft. Despite that, a personal favorite... Jun 20, 2014
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.10
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
  5.10
regardless of me posting way too much here... there are no more 10 moves on this climb, there is a permanent cheater stone now, they've built up the ground to control run off and make it more accessible, makes the climb clock in around 5.7++/5.8.. Nov 29, 2012
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.10
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
  5.10
fyi new guidebook confirms the 5.10 rating... Nov 20, 2012
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.10
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
  5.10
If routes are suppose to be graded on the hardest moves then this is a 5.10. It's even listed in Vernon Phinney's Rushmore guidebook as "5.10 boulder start" and I have to agree. I don't know where the original 5.8 grade came from b/c I'd have to say after the opener it eases up considerably to 5.5 to 5.7ish moves. Really fun climb non the less. Don't use the cheater blocks either, figure out the moves, they're pretty straight forward. May 28, 2012
Carly
Rapid City, SD
Carly   Rapid City, SD
"The boost" is always a humbling experience. Jul 4, 2006
this was my first lead. Had a lot of fun. tricky on bottom but after that had a great time. 2 stars Mar 24, 2004
Brad Boner  
 
I get a kick out of just walking by this route. Every time I'm in the South Seas and I pass Critical View I'm amused by how people remedy their frustration of the start of the route. As Bob said, the large nob at the bottom keeps getting higher and higher from erosion, and people get more and more creative in how they get up to that nob. Once I saw smaller rocks with sticks on top piled up at the base, another time there was this small boulder there that only could've been lifted by two people, and just recently I found a log braced between the nob and ground for frustrated climbers to walk up. Admittedly, when I first started climbing about nine years ago, Tom Bodensteiner and myself used to take a running start at the route, quickdraw in hand, and hop up on that nob to clip the first bolt. I'm glad to say I've since solved the "problem" of the boulder start, but Critical View is still one of my own personal classics. Oct 4, 2003
This route use to be definately 5.8. But through the course of erosion and the missing stone the start has gotten harder. The ground use to be at least 18 inches higher aqt the base of the rock. I use to be able to walk up to the route and step right up on the big knob. Now I have to make some interesting moves to get on it. Then there was a cheater stone at it's base for awhile which is now gone too. Aug 30, 2002