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Routes in Rhinoceros Rock

Chockstone Pinnacle S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hairy Horn T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Northwest Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 206 total · 1/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Aug 11, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This route is a lot of fun, and a good lead for leaders with a little experience placing pro. Although this can be done as one pitch, it breaks up nicely into two pitches with a great ledge to belay from.

Start near the right side of the north face of Rhinoceros Rock. A variety of possibilities exist, but take a crack that diagonals from left to right up a ways, and then take the easiest path to the shoulder to the right of the summit. Fixed anchors are here for a belay. For the second pitch, climb the crack at the belay (crux), and continue to the top with fixed anchors. One rope should do the trick to get off the formation. The rappel goes off the back side.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

Peter Gram
Cupertino, CA
 
Peter Gram   Cupertino, CA  
 
I believe that the left to right angling crack that I mentioned is the obvious crack starting at the tree pictured in the center of the photo. I am sure other variations exist at about the same level of difficulty. Aug 11, 2002
Dallas R
Traveling the USA
Dallas R   Traveling the USA
Found the Chockstone 2 pitch, then noticed some anchors in the middle of the face to the right. New to trad climbing it looked like an excellent place to practice. There are two cracks that lead to the first anchor. Both about 5.4-.5. The anchor is set up vertically.

From there it was a debate to go up right, or traverse a little to the left join a right angle crack to an obvious bench. Placement was more obvious (to me) left. Either way works. What is important is that from the middle anchor, at the one o'clock position is a bench, on that bench is a second set of anchors. West end. Still 5.4-.5. Anchors are over the top so out of sight to the second. There is still a bit to the summit, we chose to bail from the anchors. From the anchors you can single rap off the backside or rap back to the middle anchors, then a second rap. 60m would not reach bottom off the face. Sep 14, 2015

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