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Routes in Hornsby's Rock

Pestilence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way It Is, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Brent Kertzman and Scott VanOrman '90
Page Views: 45 total, 0/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jul 26, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

On the northwest side of Hornsby's, The Way It Is is the right route of the two bolted lines. Climb through the bolts which are often closely spaced (two are a couple of feet apart). Fixed anchors and a one rope rappel to get off.

Protection

bolted route, fixed anchors at the top

Photos

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Byron J. Hastings
Mystic, SD
  5.8+
Byron J. Hastings   Mystic, SD
  5.8+
Kertzman, get off your lazy ass and go fix this route or get the BHCC to do it. The route is very fun but the bolts leave a little too be desired. The bolt count could be reduced by one if the first two werwe rearranged. There is no real need for another bolt up high... after this is still the Needle last time I checked. Sep 6, 2011
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
  5.8
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
  5.8
We found there to be problems with the gauging size of both styles of Rawl 5/16" bolts. We had two new 5/16" bits that were sized correct. Thus there are two bolts of dubious quality close together near the bottom. You have my blessing to replace the first two bolts with one bolt near the second location. Oh the problems with hand drilling in the transitional era.

Based on the fact that the bolts were drilled on the lead from free stances, I'm not real certain how this route got catergorized as a sport route. The route makes a safe stepping stone for beginning leaders. The original rating was 5.8 and still seems right in that ballpark. Feb 9, 2008
John Klooster
Arvada, CO
  5.9
John Klooster   Arvada, CO
  5.9
First bolt is a spinner and second bolt is hanging out of the hole. Oct 8, 2005