Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Dam - Back Side

All That Glitters is Gold (AKA For A Snickers) S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bagpiper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Better Than Pool and Pie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
California Boys S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
East Dam Gully (?) T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Evarete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Juicer V0 4
M & M's S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Nugget and a Biscuit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pieces of Eight S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wild Rib S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,833 total, 20/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Jul 23, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


67 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Better Than Pool and Pie ascends a fairly low angle slab with big holds just left of the dam. To reach it, take a right after walking under the chockstone. The route is a few hundred feet down the trail, and is the most obvious, least runout, and easiest looking line of bolts.

The best part of the route is topping out and looking down at the lake. This is a beautiful spot, and a great safe moderate climb.

Protection

Draws. Rap chains at the top.
Oliver S.
Custer,SD
 
Oliver S.   Custer,SD
 
If you plan to top rope this route make sure not to put your rope through the anchor use your own gear! I recently noticed the quick links on the anchor are getting quite worn and need to be replaced due to this. Aug 26, 2016
DerekL
  5.6 R
DerekL  
  5.6 R
I did this climb yesterday. It was a nice climb but the 3 bolt is only half way up the route which causes a major run out. I would suggest sling or a BD #12 nut to put on a flake about three quarters the way up the route. Mar 9, 2015
There are still 4 bolts on this route,first 3 are new BHCC bolts then 1 newer 3/8 wedge bolt. Sep 6, 2014
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
  5.4
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
  5.4
Started out on this climb in tennis shoes on 8/29/14 to get the kinks out after driving for 12 hrs. from Wisconsin. Wasn't there 4 bolts on this climb in the past? There's only three now and the first two appear to be new. Anyway, if you fall above the first black bolt before clipping the second black bolt you're going to hit the deck after bouncing off the large bulge near the bottom of the climb. Just so you know it's not the safe choice it was in the past for a beginning leader. Sep 4, 2014
Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
  5.5 PG13
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
  5.5 PG13
Every time that I was out up there this last summer, I saw non-locals (I'm assuming)) having epics of one kind or another on this. Bring gear for it... there are good placements above the last bolt. Aug 5, 2013
Joel Leusink
Hull, IA
5.5
Joel Leusink   Hull, IA
5.5
Great little climb. We just did this with some friends and their kids last week. This is a great place to start leading, or just bring newbies. There are 2 well placed bolts with chains on top for an easy rappel. This is an unusually well protected route for the Black Hills. May 30, 2012
Ayescotty9
  5.6
Ayescotty9  
  5.6
My 8 year old climbed this yesterday. It was the first outdoor route she ever "topped out," while overcoming her fear of heights. A great confidence booster for my kiddo! Probably be a great intro to outdoor climber for anyone.

As said earlier, the 5.7ish route to the right can be top-roped to the right of this one for a new climber wanting a bit more spice.

Enjoy this fun and easy to access climb, and don't forget to catch the breeze off the lake once you've topped it out! Jun 30, 2010
I climbed this route yesterday and loved every second of it. Climbing is new to me and this was my first route ever. The description is perfect and it is a fairly easy to moderate route. It was a route that was really very comfortable and great for a beginner to start with and get their "feet wet in the sport of rock climbing." I encourage beginners to seek out this route and really concentrate on getting to know the "foot work" in climbing. Please, if you do not trust yourself on your own with climbing, seek training with Sylvan Rocks Climbing or a trusted professional climber. Climbing is an adventure, but it is also very dangerous. REMEMBER: YOUR LIFE DEPENDS ON YOUR SAFETY. Have a great climb..... Jul 5, 2009
Joe M
Beckley, wv
  5.5
Joe M   Beckley, wv
  5.5
The most difficult part of this route is trying to decide which hold to use... there are so many of them! Sep 2, 2008
Erik Tullberg
Colorado Springs
  5.6 R
Erik Tullberg   Colorado Springs
  5.6 R
Maybe I'm a wimp, but the face at the top doesn't appear to be bolted (couldn't find one) providing for at least a 30' runout. Sure, the climbing is easy, but who wants to chance a 60' fall even if it's highly unlikely. I hooked a horn for a little extra pro, but I didn't have any stoppers or cams with me to throw in the crack... so if you're wimpy like me, take up some cams and/or a little extra webbing (I used a shoulder length runner). If you don't want to risk the face, you can cut left behind the flake to an easy free-soloable chimney.

Regarding the rating, in my opinion there is a 5.6 move 1/3 of the way up so the climb should really be rated on that and I agree with the original rating. The rest of it is 5.4 and the top is probably 5.3. Also, the second bolt is a ground fall (if you fall before you get there), fwiw.

Of course, your mileage may vary :)

Erik Jul 27, 2008
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
  5.4
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
  5.4
Sixty meter rope definitely hits the deck. The main task is to keep it dry by throwing to your right away from the small drainage from the lake that occurs inside the rock cleft to the right as you face the climb. There's also a 5.7 route that angles towards the rock cleft and then back left just to the right of Pools (see picture submitted by me above). Don't know the route's name. There are 4 bolts (old buttons) for pro. Obviously, you don't want to fall on them. The same anchor is used on both climbs and the safe way to do this route is on top rope, but if you do come off you'll take a nasty pendulum. Jul 8, 2007
Peter Arndt
  5.4
Peter Arndt  
  5.4
Just climbed this route last week and I guess my 60 meter rope is WAY longer than 60 meters as Terra Firma was gained easily. (not to get into a pissing match here) Jul 5, 2007
Peter Arndt
  5.4
Peter Arndt  
  5.4
Long and very easy climb. Nice view of lake from summit. 60 meter rope will more than get you down. 50 meter probably as well. Jul 3, 2007
Dakota Kid
Rochester Hills, MI
  5.4 PG13
Dakota Kid   Rochester Hills, MI
  5.4 PG13
Concur with AC -- this was my first climb outside of a gym. No fear on this one. Jul 14, 2006
This a a good climb to take first time climbers up. It is fun and very easy to get to Jan 30, 2003